Horse Creek Falls

It is no secret. In fact, the news media and the Weather Channel make it sound like Montana is buried - in water. However, Montana is much too mountainous for such a statement to ring true. In fact, at our elevation the extra water has created some highly desireable, long forgotten, and rarely seen sights.

Take Narrows Creek for example. In the past eight years, Narrows Creek has looked and acted like a creek only on rare occasions and for brief time periods. Thus the spawning activity which made this creek 'famous' has been non-existent. However, more than one fish has made its way up the roaring little stream which has been singing outside my window this past month.

Or consider Horse Creek. This local stream has withstood the drier weather patterns with more success - but, nonetheless, has been far from its 'impressive' self. This year it is doing a remarkable job of moving water. A water-feature on this stream was the focus of an early morning hike as May became June.

I had hiked up Horse Creek a few days earlier to check the condition of my favorite waterfall. However, I made that hike without my camera. Thus I had a perfect excuse for a return visit.

The sun comes up EARLY this time of year. Thus is was just beginning to kiss the cabins with a golden glow as I headed out

It may have been early June, but the snow didn't seem to know. At the top of many north facing ridges I have clambered over snow drifts many feet deep. While they are fading, they appear in no hurry to leave. Obviously, Bo does not mind that one bit!

The shortest route to my destination was up the draw before Narrows Creek Pond, over the ridge, and down into Horse Creek. This cuts off about a mile from the 'easy' route down Elk Lake Road and up Horse Creek Canyon. Topping the ridge I came across an unusual sight - five Pronghorns intermingled with three Mule Deer.

I doubt it is that unusual to see pronghorn and deer in close proximity. However, while both species winter in the Madison Valley, I have never seen them grazing together. Nonetheless, as odd as I found their close proximity to one another, the recent activities of these Pronghorn (which, I suspect, may be the same five who hung around last year) has been even more noteworthy.

I have seen these five animals in many places - but most often NOT where I'd expect to see them. The last time I saw them, they were at the highest point of the ridge I was traversing, on the edge of heavy forest. Since most 'normal' Pronghorn seem to prefer wide-open, level spaces, I'm not sure what to make of this little herd.

After a 35 minute hike I made it to the foot of the falls. I must add this disclaimer at the outset: These pictures do not do them justice. The canyon is narrow and heavily timbered. Thus I found it very difficult to obtain a position which would give me a decent camera perspective. Furthermore, while the sun was 'up' on the ridges, the deep canyons were still bathed in the half-light of early day. Nevertheless, if you look up the draw you can see a large fir tree which grows at the top of the falls.

Not only is the canyon narrow, the 'falls' itself is really just a jumble of boulders tossed by a giant hand into the bottom of the steep narrow gorge down which Horse Creek flows. In addition many of these boulders are the size of a full-size pickup truck, further warping one's perspective of the actual size.

The cattle or game (or both) have created a spiderweb trail network along the steep banks in this narrow draw. Scrambling along one I obtained a different persepctive.

The boulders tend to dominate the scene. This is one reason I wanted to head up while water flow was at its peak. Although I've seen this stream trickling down over these massive rocks, it is hard to portray the amount of water flowing over them this year.

These two close-up shots give you an idea - especially when you realizes this is only one 'part' of the creek. The rocks force the water to head in many directions to work its way through this rocky maze.

I was also frustrated becaise it was to show the height from which the water drops over this rocky landscape. This picture, taken from the top, shows the top of the falls (see the water in the lower right corner) and the bottom of the falls (about mid-picture). While the falls itself is out of sight, it is possible to gain a little idea how far the water drops.

It was time to leave the shadowed draw and head for the sunny ridge. From the top I had a nice view of Mt. Jefferson behind Elk Mountain.

Back over my shoulder I had a beautiful view of the Centennial Valley's lower end with Lima Peaks in the distance. This was shaping up to be a beautiful day!

While the light wasn't the greatest for 'waterfall' shots, I couldn't complain about the bright sunlight bathing the ridges for the walk home. However, I was a bit disappointed at first. There did not appear to be a single wild animal in sight. Then, way over there, I caught a glimpse of a cow elk - and, what do you know, there was a calf - I suspect it was the same one I'd spotted a couple days earlier. And, while the distance was too far for a great shot, at least I have proof there was at least one baby elk running around the neighborhood!

Closer to home I ran across a couple Mule Deer, grazing in the morning sun.

Then came the highlight of the day. As I dropped into the final draw, heading back toward the lodge, I heard a loud crashing noise ahead and to my right. At first I thought I'd startled something which was running away from me. I hate to startle the wildlife - so I stopped. Only it wasn't running away, it was coming toward me - and it was BIG!

Living in bear country I know I should have thought 'BEAR' and been looking for a place to hide. However, in all honesty, bear never even crossed my mind. But, then again, bull Elk didn't either!

The dogs and I were down in the draw (thus in the shadows). He was about 30 feet above us with his face in the sun. Thus we were invisible. Furthermore, he was panting so loudly, I don't think he could have heard us if we'd made noise - he certainly didn't pick up on the camera's shutter.

I do not think he would have recognized we were nearby (The dogs were so good. They just stood there and watched him walk by!) if his path hadn't crossed the top of the draw we had just descended.

He was amazing to watch. He walked across above us with such a stately air probably heading for a nice cool spot to spend the day. Without warning he stopped and whirled in a movement so quick it was hard to follow. Clearly he had our scent, but he still had no idea where we were. Thus he headed back along his own track and stopped directly above where we were standing.

This time, with mouth closed, he heard the camera's shutter click. While I doubt he ever saw us, this was all it took to send him back up the hillside he had just decended. Wow! What an amazing up-close and personal experience.

There aren't any 'bad' mornings at Elk Lake. It's just too amazing to live here. However, a morning like that does more to kick in the endorphins than a pot of coffee or a good run! Yet, amazing as it was, in so many ways, this was just another relatively normal day in my life. That, I believe, is the most amazing part of all!

Lady of the Lake

That Mongolian Valley

Remember that Mongolian Valley I mentioned about five years ago? The valley which is supposed to be very similar to the Centennial? For those of you who do not remember - or have not been with me that long - here is the blurb:

After living most of my life in Oregon, I found Montana's Centennial Valley - and fell in love. I'm convinced there is no place like it on earth (although rumor has it, there is a valley exactly like it in Mongolia - but I don't expect to go looking for it anytime soon).

Well, like so many things in life, there was more truth tucked away in that rumor than I realized. And so, after six years at Elk Lake I find out there really is a valley in Mongolia which closely resembles the Centennial Valley. Not only is it real - I have had the privilege of seeing pictures and learning much about the valley and the people who live there. In fact, with the help of Cliff Montagne, the guest whose slide show introduced me to that far off valley, I hope to share some serious details about the land, its inhabitants, and the work currently going on half a world away sometime in the near future. Until then, here is a bit to show the incredible similarities between Montana's Centennial Valley and its Mongolian cousin.

Where is this place? What is it called? How is it similar? Here are just a few facts:

The Mongolian valley which shares many similarities with Montana's Centennial Valley is Mongolia's Darhad Valley. It is located in northern Mongolia, just about 200 miles from Lake Bakal, the world's second most voluminous lake. Tell me this description from Waderson.com (a fly-fishing company) doesn't sound like the Centennial. "Travelling to Mongolia's famous Darhad Valley, you will fish two outstanding wilderness rivers during this two-week fishing adventure. This is a trip for the adventurous angler, who enjoys camping out, good food, excellent fishing and stunning surroundings, on a professionally outfitted trip. Enjoy wild-river fly-fishing for Taimen, Lenok Trout and Grayling."

Except for the 'famous' part (which, from my understanding this valley is 'famous' in much the same way the Centennial is famous - for its rugged, undeveloped, wild and pristine beauty), they could be describing Montana's Centennial Valley. Even the fish are similar - trout and grayling!

Similar also are the valleys' vegetation. Willows line the stream beds. Evergreens blanket the mountain's shoulders. Grass carpets the valley floor. In fact, an article by Tracy Ellis available on the MSU website (entitled "A Land Without Fences") paints an interesting and yet familiar picture. "In the Darhad Valley of north-central Mongolia, nomadic herders live with little in the way of roads, electricity, medical care or contact with the outside world. The landscape is vast grasslands and soaring, snow-capped mountains, where winter temperatures average minus 22 Fahrenheit." Sounds a LOT like the Centennial.

Not only are the fish similar, the some of the animals are familiar too. While the natives graze more sheep than cattle (sheep used to dominate in the Centennial as well), cattle do reside in the valley during the summer. In fact, like the Centenial, the Darhad Valley is only a seasonal grazing ground. In addition, the Mongolian nomadic herdspeople have to deal with large predators - primarily wolves!

The topography and origin of the valleys are also similar. Sitting at a 5,000 elevation, the valley is unhospitable in the winter, but offers wonderful summer pasture. Another similarity unique to both is, while both valley floors are primarily grasslands, both have sandhills. Both valleys are dotted with water - a river, several shallow lakes of varying sizes. Perhaps the similarities arise, in part, from both valleys being created by glacial flows which occurred during a similar time frame.

Unlike the Centennial, Darhad Valley lands are held in common (not privately owned). Yet, here again, there is more similarity than one might catch at first glance. Remember, much of the Centennial Valley is public land - either federal or state. However, the primary difference between the valleys is in the people. While the Centennial has a few year round residents (including yours truly), most of its residents are ranchers who have summer grazing (with real houses) in the Centennial but with a home base at a lower elevation. The nomadic herders who summer in the Darhad Valley are, perhaps, an even hardier breed. Not only do they travel cross country from winter to summering grounds, often without any wheeled vehicle to assist, they transport not only their families, their gear and their stock, but their homes!

One more similarity: both valleys are 'areas of interest' to Montanans. The Centennial gets a lot of attention, primarily from wildlife lovers and those who get intense pleasure from pure, unadulturated nature. However, it is also a wonderful outdoor classroom drawing scientific-types from all over the country - including from Montana's own state university in Bozeman. In similar manner, a group of people from MSU, led by the Montagnes, have (for the last several years) traveled to Mongolia to spend several months working in the Darhad Valley, searching for ways to help the nomads improve their lives and land management. Perhaps, then, the most unique connection between the Centennial and the Darhad is: the Centennial Valley serves as a training ground for those traveling to the Darhad Valley each summer. Wow! One just never knows how much truth is contained in the rumors they hear.

Lady of the Lake

Then versus Now

Any season in the Centennial provides a challenge. For example, our remote location makes getting to the store an ordeal, if not a challenge, regardless of the season. Planning a grocery trip, spring, summer, fall, or winter, requires quite a bit of organization.

Some things never change. The following excerpt from Centennial Valley History, Vol 1 could have been taken from a recent conversation.

"Figuring out and ordering supplies . . . was quite a task in itself. Figuring out the food needed . . . ahead of time was a skill. Most women spent some time deciding on this list and gained experience as the years went along." (pg 164)

The primary difference between 'then' and 'now'? Back then, they purchased supplies for a family (and the work crew, and a few visitors). Back then, they purchased everything except what they raised, for a six to twelve month period.

Now, we purchase supplies to feed 30 people or more EVERY day. We purchase everything - no 'exceptions.' Some things are purchased in sufficient quantities for six months or so. Others, like fresh produce and dairy products, are purchased for the week.

What has really changed - and yet has changed little - is the difficulty getting in and out of the valley. Of course, a major change is the mode of transportation. We've come a LONG way from horse-drawn transportation. During the Centennial's developmental 'hayday', few had cars and no one had a snowmobile. In fact, I believe the first snow machine used in the valley was the homemade snow plane used for mail delivery.

Now, no one considers horse-drawn transportation. We ride comfortably in our cars or on our snowmobiles. But, coming in last Sunday evening, at below zero temperatures with a brutal wind adding to our discomfort, was far from 'comfortable.' In fact, I wondered once again how our fore-fathers and mothers managed to survive.

Granted, they purchased their supplies in bulk. People only moved about when absolutely necessary. In fact, one early valley resident is credited with saying the valley wasn't fit for man or beast in the winter. None-the-less, people lived here. They survived. They flourished.

Normally, I would vehemently argue the valley's lack of 'fitness' in the winter. However, last Sunday I was close to agreement. And, if I had to spend any length of time outside today, I'd heartily agree. When temperatures drop below zero, and stay there, only my very hairy dog seems unaffected.

However, season and temperatures aside, getting around the valley can be challenging now, but even more so then. Winter, of course, often brought the greatest challenges. In fact, a letter from Wm J Brundage to Donnee Stibal, dated Aug 22, 1988, and excerpted in the Centennial Valley, Vol 1, tells about one particularly hairy winter.

". . . The horses and sleighs thru the winter had packed the snow for a foot or eighteen inches in each sled track. If a sleigh got off the road with one runner on the road and one runner off, it would tip over; so when two sleighs met (which wasn't often) the driver of the empty one or with the least load would turn out. His sleigh would tip on its side. The other driver would go on by, unhitch his team, come back and hook onto the other sleigh and help to get it upright and back on the road. Then he would go back to his own sleigh, hook up and both would be on their way again." (pg 120)

Now, the only way in and out is by snowmobile. When hauling a cargo trailer behind a snowmobile, however, the picture can get a bit 'grainy and old-fashioned.' For example, get the runner of the cargo trailer off the packed trail and you can end up with a wreck much like the one described above. Fortunately, a snowmobile cargo trailer (for that matter a snowmobile) weighs less than a horse-drawn wagon!

When people look at our lifestyle, shake their heads, and marvel at our resiliance (or craziness), I look a bit further back. Yes, we live a different lifestyle. Sometimes, it's a bit challenging. Sometimes it feels a bit hard. But, I've decided our fore-fathers and mothers were the extremely tough people.

After all, although my finger tips never thawed (last Sunday), my handwarmers kept frostbite at bay and my hands mobile. Although my nose began to hurt and tingle, my helmet protected my head and face from the elements. Although the cold bit through my bibs and coat, the quality of my clothing kept me fairly comfortable. Although the wind gusted wildly around my sled, my snowmobile blocked the bulk of it.

Thus, although life in the Centennial has its own unique challenges, and although life at Elk Lake Resort isn't always fun and games, it's home. And, there really is No Place Like Home!!

It's Wild and Wintery In the Centennial

Funny. Seems like a lot of people think winter is just a time to 'get through.' We talk about the winter doldrums. Some experience depression after days of gray skies. Many New Year's Resolutions to exercise quickly fade when faced with winter weather. But, there are some who enjoy winter.

Those are the folks you'll find on skies, or snowshoes, or snowmobiles, on dog sleds, or sometimes just snuggled by a cheery fire with a great book. I like to think I fall into the later category. However, I must admit, it hasn't always been so.

For years we lived where it rained and rained and rained all winter. On the days it didn't rain, the clouds clung to the earth like saran wrap. The wet kept me in. The clouds kept me down. But, not any longer!

Here in the Centennial, we enjoy more days of sunshine than clouds. And, when its cloudy, it's usually snowing. Who can frown when frozen particles are drifting like pieces of cotton candy from above? Not me!

Another misconception of winter is it is a 'dead' time. The trees look dead. The grass is dead. Even the wildlife seems to have disappeared leaving behind dead skies, dead fields, and dead trees.

Not true! I'm finding the more I get out, the more I see. My New Year's resolution, actually my resolution before we left for Costa Rica (back when I got envisioning myself in a swim suit on the beach - and didn't exactly like the picture), was to get some exercise at least 6 days a week.

I bought a stationary bike for those nasty, in the house, curled up by the fire days. But, cross country skies are much more fun. So, on those nicer days, I'm trying to get a couple miles or so on the skies.

Fortunately, cross country sking is great exercise. Here in the Centennial, we get a lot of lovely days. Consequently, I've gotten out quite a bit this winter. Guess what I've found? Lots of birds and animals are making a living just fine, in spite of the less than friendly looking landscape.

Granted, there is less variety. I suppose animals are like humans. Some just haven't got what it takes to tough out the colder months. Can't say I blame them. Seems like more and more humans are following their lead. Heading to warmer climates during the cooler months. Maybe that's why we call them 'snowbirds'? But, I digress.

Just in the past four days , we've enjoyed the following (we being four sets of eyes):

46 moose sightings (several were young to moderate aged bulls)

2 coyote sightings (tracks elsewhere in addition)

2 fox sightings (tracks and scat found along lake and near lodge as well)

25 trumpeter swan sightings

numerous ducks sighted (mallards and a smaller black-headed duck I have yet to identify)

3 bald eagle sightings (one with lunch in its tallons)

1 couple of flocks of grey birds about the size of a sparrow hawk (I need to look them up, too)

2 shartail grouse

1 set of fresh cougar tracks

1 black-cap chickadee singing its little heart out right outside my window

All in all, not bad for such a brief time period. It makes me sad to think there are those who haven't yet learned to enjoy winter (or maybe, like me, live someplace where winter is made to be endured). I'm glad I live here, where winter is alive with things to see and do.

Lady of the Lake

From Montana to Costa Rica and Back Again!

Talk about temperature shock. Less than a week ago we were sweltering in mid 70 to upper 80 degree weather (and a humidity level way up there) on the south-western coast of Costa Rica ("Beautiful Coast"). Two days ago Elk Lake Resort welcomed us back to 17 degrees below zero! I'm not sure my 'thinned' blood has warmed since I got back home.

Nevertheless, I'm so very glad to be here. Outside my window a light snow is falling, adding its splendor to the beautiful white blanket covering the ground. As much as I enjoyed the tropical splendors of Costa Rica, nothing compares to the beauty and serenity of the Centennial Valley.

And, yet, many things about Costa Rica 'felt' like home (I'm speaking of the Centennial Valley in particular here). The natural beauty, the friendly people, the slower pace of life (at least when we're not in the middle of our busy season), and even the roads.

In fact, I finally figured out where Beaverhead County learned to build roads. They visited Costa Rica! Sadly, however, Costa Rica is moving ahead, improving their country's infastructure. On the other hand, Beaverhead County appears to have no desire to move the Centennial Valley into the 20th century (at least when it comes to roads - now if we're talking taxes, that's a whole different arena all together).

However, on a more positive note. Costa Rica is a country loaded with natural beauty. The flora and fauna are incredibly colorful. Many of the birds proudly display brilliant plumage. Even the degrees of green in the jungle foliage are diverse and varied. Top that off with pristine south-western beaches. Here one can still find unspoiled and unpopulated sandy beaches boarded by palm trees and rugged cliffs. If that isn't enough, awesome sunsets throw flaming reds and golds across the sky.

One might think, from my adulation, the Centennial Valley has dimmed in my eyes. Never fear! Costa Rica can't hold a candle to the sheer vastness of our wild open spaces. In fact, Costa Rica is almost claustrophic by comparison. Our countryside seems to welcome entry and exploration. Their countryside seems to do all it can to bar intruders. Unless you're armed with a machette and several gallons of water (to replace all you're going to loose in sweat), you won't be wandering far off the 'beaten path' in Costa Rica.

I must say, however, the Costa Rican people made us feel right at home, even when we couldn't speak their language (which was all the time unless they could speak ours). In fact, I had two occasions where I needed to communicate something, but I didn't speak Spanish and my would-be 'helper' didn't speak English. Believe it our not, we figured it out!

In the first instance I needed to call home. In our little town, Ojochal, there was a small C-Store (I can't remember what they call them, but that is a close description) which offered a 'public' phone. In other words, they would let us use their phone. We were then to pay them for the call.
My helper, a young man in his mid-teens, didn't speak English. I wrote the phone number I wished to call on a piece of cardboard. He dialed the operator, placed the call, and handed me the phone. (At this point no money had changed hands). When I finished my call, I offered to pay (held out money). He held up his hand for me to wait and called the operator back. After a brief conversation with her, he handed me the phone. Fortunately she could speak English. Long story short, she told me how much to pay him - and told him how much I owed. I passed over the money (and a tip for his time and help), and we called things good. Amazing!

My second helper came along when I desperately needed a bathroom. We were waiting for the road crew to fix the only bridge heading North out of town (the nearest 'detour' was over 8 hours out of the way). After waiting nearly an hour we learned they estimated repairs to take another hour. I went in search of a bathroom. Fortunately my helper, an older gentelman this time, had a better understanding of basic English than I did of basic Spanish. When I asked for a bathroom, he pointed at what looked like a closet. When I asked again, he pointed again. Sure enough, he'd gotten my point.

Here in the Centennial, people are friendly too. Costa Rican's don't have us beat here. I've heard many stories (and been involved in a few too) of people stranded or in need of assistance here in the valley. When you get stranded here, it feels like you're in a foreign country. It's just soooo far to the outside world. However, in each case our valley residents and visitors have stepped in to lend a hand.

The primary difference, from my point of view, is Costa Rica is all about people. While our nearest neighbor is over 15 miles away, Costa Rica packs hundreds into its villages and millions into its cities. It may be many miles between villages, but the jungle keeps people (for the most part), contained. So, there is little chance to feel the seclusion which the Centennial Valley offers.
Last, but not least is the slower pace of life. Here I found the most similarity between Costa Rica and the Centennial Valley. People had time to visit. They seemed to enjoy one another's company. You didn't see much of the American 'keep up with the Jones' syndrome. People worked hard and relaxed freely. Much work was done by hand - and sweat wasn't something to avoid. There were no three-piece suits. Although it seemed most Costa Ricans had a cell phone (just a few short years ago the town only had a single land-line phone), many didn't have a car. Most of all, they seemed content to live where they were. You didn't see the need to move which predominates Western society.

Here are several lessons we, Americans, could learn. Fortunately in the Centennial, most families still make their living close to the land. They still believe in hard work and healthy sweat. Neighbors are still important. Friendships are still honored - even when it hurts. And, most people who live in the Centennial can't imagine living anywhere else. This is home, and they love it!

All in all, I think the two biggest contrasts I found between home and Costa Rica were the temperatures (100 degrees is quite noticeable) and the unfriendly jungle as compared to our wide open spaces. I loved our trip. I highly admire the Costa Rican people. I can see why so many Europeans (there are a LOT of them down there) now call that little country home. They, too, have found what most of America and Europe has forgotten - how to slow down and live without overwhelming governmental control and unlimited handouts.

For those of you who think Costa Rica might be worth a visit (I'd recommend it), check out La Casa De Tierra. Set on 55 private acres in the middle of the jungle, this single-family home provided us a private 'get away' while we enjoyed Costa Rica. We'd also recommend a small motel owned by a Canadian family which serves as an excellent base for visiting Costa Rica's beautiful volcanos. Hotel La Rosa de America is a B&B hotel located in the Central Valley. Or, if you prefer a little more pampering, check out Buena Vista. "Beautiful View" is a lovely B&B owned by wonderful Canadian couple. They not only offer many 'support' services, recreational suggestions, lovely private rooms, and an inviting pool, their property does indeed offer a beautiful view in nearly every direction.

In spite of all these words of praise, I can honestly say, "There is NO PLACE LIKE HOME". I'm glad to be back, Elk Lake.

Lady of the Lake