Elk Lake News - Life at a Montana Mountain Lodge

A Great Day To Snowshoe

2012-02-08T10:06:00.000-07:00

This winter has been marked by lovely weather. Unlike some places I have lived, low moisture typically means lots of sunshine. Thus we have enjoyed many many beautiful days. This particular day it was so lovely, you would have had to tie me to a bedpost to keep me in!

Sunshine. Blue Skies. Fresh Snow. All perfect ingredients for a day outdoors. Granted, with our dry snow, snowshoes aren't always the best mode of travel, but I have learned quite a bit about snowshoeing in powder snow this year. One important tidbit: If you want to 'enjoy' snowshoeing in this kind of snow, pick a couple of favorite 'hikes' and keep a trail packed in. So, I headed (generally) for a trail we'd packed in a week earlier.

Of course, there's no sense in making it too easy. After all, where's the challenge in that? So, I decided to try and follow a game trail up from the Narrows instead of head further across the bay to our packed trail. I figured I cut our trail on around the hill (and I did), but we traversed quite a bit of powder before we reached it - we being the dogs and I - who, as you can tell, are not overly excited about my route!

As I'm sure I've mentioned before, one of the things I really appreciate about snow is its ability to 'store' information. Tracks. Skat. They stand out on the snowy background. And, when I run across fresh tracks, it's always fun to determine 'who' passed this way before me. Today it was a weasel. He must have been having a good time because he created several of these 'U-shaped' tunnels along the way.

When I reached the top of the hill, I realized he must have been on his way to the Weasel Convention. From the looks of these tracks, several critters converged on this one spot to catch up on the local gossip - or whatever weasels do on a nice day in January. Unfortunately, not being a weasel, I did not receive the memo (although I would love to have been there when they all converged. Imagine the photo opportunities!)

Another fun thing I like to watch for when traversing fresh snow is 'decorated' dried flowers. This yarrow wears his cap of snow with a jaunty flair, don't you think?

My goal was Elk Mountain's saddle. From this viewpoint I could see north into the Madisons and south into the Centennial Valley. I don't think the views get much more spectacular than those I enjoyed this day. To my east, Elk Mountain stood quiet and steady against its blue backdrop. In fact, the quiet was absolutely amazing. Between the warm sunshine and the silence broken only by the soft swish of a gentle breeze tickling the tops of the evergreens - well, I was tempted to sit right down and take a nap. However, the tracks coming down of the hill to the left of this photo piqued my curiosity. These belonged to something bigger than a weasel.

Whatever it was (it looked like two 'whatevers') had headed down into the draw to the left of this photo. As I worked my way toward the edge, hoping for a glimpse, I couldn't keep from trying to capture the beauty of the Centennial Valley.

That's the lovely thing about snow. I didn't see them. The dogs smelled them and barked so they weren't far away. But, their tracks remained - testimony to the two elk whose sunbathing I'd aparently disrupted!

Dropping off the saddle heading back toward the lake, we cut some more tracks. This time a coyote who had been using our trail (in places) to make his own travels easier. However, unlike the dogs and I, he didn't sink to his knees and beyond on the fresh stuff. In fact, I was impressed with how little impression he made.

Some sights are just too pretty. How do you capture the beauty and grandeur of something you can't even begin to describe? I tried - but my attempts pale when compared to the 'real' thing! Any way you look at it, the Madison and Elk Lake sure compliment each other.

The trail heading back follows the cattle track over the Divide. This well-worn pathway drops steeply down until it pops out of the trees. Years ago this hillside was covered in aspens - a golden glow in the fall. Now only a few stands remain to testify of their sweeping grandeau. There is something special about these lovely trees. How is it their white trunks manage to look so interesting against a white background? Even the sun could not keep from caressing their lovely bark this fine day.

Stepping back into the open sagebrush-dotted hillside, I looked up to behold the most beautiful wispy clouds forming overhead. Picture patterns, drawn by the wind, meandered above - too large to capture fully but this gives a hint of their unique form.

Even as I made my way down that final slope to the lake, those wispy clouds began to take on substance. By the time I headed back across the frozen lake to the private resort's nook, the sunlight began to fade. While nothing came of those clouds (and this winter snow would have been very welcome), the memory of that fine sunny day has left a lingering feeling of pleasure!

Lady of the Lake

Yellowstone In Winter

2012-02-01T00:44:00.000-07:00

Although we have lived just west of Yellowstone National Park for eight years now, we have never been into the Park during the winter. Yes, we make an annual trip (or two) - typically fall and spring - but since YNP changed their winter access regulations (which happened, I believe, our second or third winter here) a winter trip has been outside our pocket book's limit. However, this year, due to the low snow conditions, we did not return to Elk Lake as early as normal. This meant we were 'out' to participate in events which typically never cross our radar. As a result, we were able to participate in Kids & Snow - a superb program put together by the West Yellowstone Chamber.

Part of the day's events included, if one so desired, a mini-winter trip into Yellowstone National Park. Granted, it was a few hours, not a full day, but it was fun to see familiar territory in its light but white blanket. So we signed up - loaded up - and headed out. Since we were the only ones interested in the early morning edition, we had the guide and van to ourselves.

I will admit, I was most interested in seeing critters. Granted, Yellowstone's scenery is worth the trip. However, the diversity of wildlife and the thermal features are what make it unique. Since our trip was supposed to end at 7 mile bridge, we knew there would be no thermal features in the package. However, there was a good chance we'd see something! The first to show themselves were a couple pairs of Trumpeter Swans enjoying the Madison's open waters.

We were quite certain to see Bison. I doubt one could visit Yellowstone without seeing Bison unless they drove through with their eyes closed! The elk were an added bonus. While we know this herd winters in the Park, that certainly is no guarantee we'll see them. Unfortunately no big bulls were hanging with these cows and calves.

Next we spotted a coyote. I realize most folks have come to class these guys in the varmit category. However, since I do not have sheep or goats or chickens (or other small stock which they consider fair game), I can enjoy seeing them. This one, however, probably no longer stalks the river's edge looking for rodents. He had a pronounced limp when we saw him.

During this stretch of our journey, we also spotted several ducks. However, bouncing along in a van (the roads were not snow packed but intermittent snow does not exactly produce a smooth surface), did not promote ideal photographic conditions. While our guide was more than willing to stop, I knew our time was limited so saved the 'stop' requests for bigger game - like this muskrat munching on a weed matt.

We spotted this Canadian Goose while looking at the muskrat. He was enjoying a swampy area next to the road. Obviously one of the many warm springs which dot the Park must have kept this spot snow free. Granted I do not usually get excited about a Canadian Goose. But, remember, my goal was to spot wildlife - as many different species as possible. So. . .this guy qualified!

One of the most interesting parts of the trip - seriously - was our guide. Mark Pierce serves as Marketting Directory for Three Bear Lodge (who contributed the guide and van for these sample trips). He's a great guy who treated us like paying guests (not the freeloaders we were). However, I must admit, I had a hard time getting used to a guy with a prominent English accent telling me about my backyard. Nonetheless, he did his job well! In fact, while I am something of a voracious reader, he brought forth some interesting tidbits of which I was unaware. For one - Bison winter feeding habits.

Elk, as a general rule, head for less snowy country in the winter. As primarily grazers, their feed becomes scarce as the snow deepens. Elk which winter in the Park tend to congregate near the rivers. In fact, Mark told us they do not live as long as the animals who leave the Park - not primarily because of the harsher conditions they endure, but because a large portion of their feed comes from plants growing in and along the river's shore. Because the Park's waters contain an increased amount of silica (the primary ingredient in glass), the animals teeth wear down and their mouth's actually sustain damage. This reduces their ability to eat and thus maintain sufficient health to survive.

Moose handle the winter much better. Their uniquely jointed legs allow them to lift their feet nearly straight up. Thus they can handle snow which would severely limit an elk. Furthermore, their diet consists primarily of woody branches - trees and shrubs which are typically not completely buried. Bison, however, had me puzzled. How do these short, stocky creatures move through deeper snow and access adequate feed. It seems those massive heads play a large role. Instead of pawing for snow, Mark said they drop their heads down into the snow and swing them back and forth. Instead of trying to raise their feet above the snow as they walk, their heads serve as a snowplow. Thus it is common to see Bison with snowy faces.

Because our visit was short, wildlife sightings had changed little on our way back. Furthermore, I was on the 'wrong' side of the vehicle for most of the return trip (the water side always has the most wildlife). However, the weather began to change creating some lovely scenery shots. When we'd entered the Park, the clouds hugged the mountain tops and hid the sun. As we retraced ours steps, the sun's rays began to puncture the gloom and highlight the snow sprinkled rocky vistas.

Yes, the snow was pathetically light. In fact, the 'snow coach' we rode in that day was a two-wheel drive van! However, there was enough fresh snow to sparkle and shine on the rocky ridges which lined sections of our route. Mix in blue ski and fading wisps of fog, and you have a pretty picture - no matter how you take it!

Our guide, Mark Pierce, was a genuinely nice guy who did his best to make our trip interesting. In fact, because he had the time, he took us beyond our designated turn-around. In appreciation for his generosity, I told him I'd 'plug' his company. So. . .if you're heading for West and looking for a great trip into the Park, give See Yellowstone a hollar! They sure made our brief trip a TON of fun!

Lady of the Lake

A Different Sort Of Winter

2012-01-25T15:06:00.001-07:00

At Elk Lake, Each season seems to take on a life of its own. Thus we've had the summer of rain, the winter of the wolves and so on. This winter, at least thus far, is definitely in the running for the most unique winter of our sojourn. In fact, we built our first ever ice skating rink. This year, too, has included much less sking and much more snowshoeing than ever before.

Dry, high-mountain snow does not lend itself easily to snowshoeing. I've heard some people rave about snowshoeing. Until this year I've never seen the draw. Why? Because snow shoes SINK in our powdery dry snow. In fact, even with our low snow conditions, it is still common to sink to your knees - and that makes for a great thigh workout!

The day started with sunlight streaming in the windows to accentuate the yummy goodness of fresh baked Poppy Seed Muffins. This is one of my favorite muffin recipes. It is also one of the stickiest, ichiest creations to get out of a muffin pan that I have every seen. However, with my new silicone bakeware - well, as you can see the end result is beautiful!

I am not a 'gun' person. I have never killed wild game (but I will definitely eat it). I have hunted. However, I prefer to hunt with a camera. However, with the increased bear encounters last summer / fall (definitely the summer of the grizzly), I asked for a handgun to pack alongside my bear spray on my hiking excursions. Here hubby tries it out. (And, if you're like me, and hate to fire a gun even for target practice - because I can't imagine it doesn't scare the animals who live in the vicinity - well, you'll be glad to know we saw nothing fresh but little critter tracks near our shooting range.)

The day was just too nice - to nice not to remember in pictures. And, since a family outing is 'typically' rare during on 'on' season, we had to record this privileged day.

I am always amazed at the beautiful things one can find if they look. Rabbit Brush, once the flowers have died, does not define 'beauty' in my eyes. However, with the sun rays highlighting the few remaining puffy seedheads and the last surviving dried flowers - well, I'd be glad for these 'flowers' to grace my table any day of the week.

As has been the 'norm' for so much of the winter, we found ourselves in the 'eye' of the storm. Clouds boiled and brewed in the distance, threatening something, but overhead our skies were blue and sunlight cast a rosy hew on the sagebrush. However, things really looked more like November than January!

While to our North the Madisons remained distinct, their backdrop darkened as we watched. For those of you who have enjoyed Gary Carter's "Elk Lake Divide", you might recognize the perspective. We are just up the hill from where he posed his mountain man.

Dropping down the hill off the saddle, we began our trek back to the lodge. Heavier tree cover only allowed peek-a-boo glimpses - but those we enjoyed were strikingly beautiful.

I wasn't the only one behind the camera this day. I wonder what I look like with a camera in my face :-)

Back down on the lake the wind was whipping the snow into a turmoil. The blowing snow turned our 'ice rink' and the bare ice around it into an frozen palate upon which the wind blew snowy patterns - highlighted by the sun's lengthening rays. It was incredibly beautiful to behold.

As I mentioned in my last post, one unexpected benefits found while removing the snow from the ice for our rink was the beauty of the ice we uncovered. However, even more beautiful things were revealed in the ice the wind unburdened. This was a 'natural' hole. In other words, this is over shallow water and the edges are too uneven for it to have been drilled. Perhaps an otter created it. What fascinated me, however, was the frozen bubbles of snow trapped in the clear ice. So caught up was I in the details, it took my daughter to point to its unique pig-like shape! (The marks on top were created by my son's snowshoes. Unfortunately he beat me to the spot!)

Further 'Ice Art' was revealed in other sections. For example, this photo contains some of the snow 'bubbles', a sampling of frozen water grass trapped in an icy grip, and a sampling of the various ice forms created by a natural lake.

This section intrigued me as well. The clear ice once again reveals snow bubbles (BTW the larger 'bubbles' were at least the size of quarter) and frozen lake weeds. However you can also see the vertical layers in the ice apparently created as it thickened and formed. The top and bottom photo edges show what we call 'crackle' ice - ice which had snow inbedded in it creating air bubbles which 'crackle' under pressure.

Heading back to the lodge, my eye was arrested by the sun's long rays fingering through the willows. Long shadows on pristine snow and red willow branches create as scene which, somehow, is incredibly peaceful.

The long light of a fading day is just too spectacular to be wasted. Thus as the others hurried for the warmth of the lodge, I looked around for ways to capture the beauty of this 'different' winter. My eye was arrested by this natural winter floral arrangement. The lovely evergreens backed by starkly white aspen bark punctuated by brilliant red rose hips and accentuated by the sun's last rays - ahhh - nature's beauty in full display.

And so, as this odd winter trudges past, we are finding reasons to rejoice the beauty outside our door - be it ice or snow or winter flowers! Each is a gift to be treasured - and I do!

Lady of the Lake

Trees - Flowers - And More

2012-01-18T12:34:00.000-07:00

This may not be the time of year your mind turns naturally to the beautiful colors which carpet our hillsides throughout the summer, however, it has been a LONG time since I last posted on our local flora. In fact, I had a hard time finding my last post - mostly because I did not realize my last post was in 2008! August 27, 2008 to be exact. Way back then I challenged myself to see if I could find, photograph, and identify 100 unique species growing at or near Elk Lake. I made it to 50!

I did not stop because I ran out of specimens. In fact, the reasons were quite the opposite. I stopped because: One - I ran out of ‘easy-to-identify' specimens. Many plant families (Penstemons for example) feature many varieties. Furthermore, many plant identification photos are more confusing than helpful.

Two - I ran out of time. The harder the identification, the more time it takes. Add to that the time it takes to research interesting information about the plants, and the task just became too time consuming to continue during our busy season.

So I promised myself to return shortly. Just for the record, I do not typically define ‘shortly' as 2½ years! So, without further ado:

51 - QUAKING ASPEN

What I Already Knew: Hands down, the Quaking Aspen is my favorite tree. Even in the winter, their white, smooth bark is lovely. Their leaves, my favorite aspect, are nearly round flashing silver and green in the summer and lovely shades of yellow, orange and even red in the fall. They plants propagate via sprouts. They can take over if left alone, yet they can be choked out when evergreens deny them adequate sunlight.

What I Recently Learned: An important tree for wildlife, humans have also derived many benefits from this lovely tree which is a member of the willow family. Native Americans crushed the dried bark to mix with grain to eat. It has also been used for pain relief, fever reduction, and as a diuretic. Its properties work as an anti-oxidant and may help reduce inflamation. Other uses include as a digestive tonic or stimulant, treating diarrhea and bladder infection, and addressing other issues for issues related to the urinary tract.

All the trees in a ‘clonal colony' share a single root structure and identical characteristics. One colony in Utah named Pando, is considered to be the oldest and heaviest living organism on earth. It is estimated to weigh 6,600 TONS! and is said to be about 80,000 years old.

52 - LITTLE FLOWER (AKA SMALL FLOWER) PENSTEMON

What I Already Knew: This upright perennial produces large clusters of small deep blue flowers. It is usually less than 16 inches tall, growing in a mat. Each of the plant's smooth, slender stems bears several pairs of opposing leaves. The flowers are typically intensely blue to purple.

What I Recently Learned: This Penstemon is found in much of the western United States. It tolerates hot and dry conditions. It is a favorite for flower gardens seeking to attract hummingbirds.

There are over 1900 known Penstemon species. Seeds for domestic cultivation were offered for sale in Europe as early as 1813. It is a very attractive flower which has become a favorite of flower gardeners - and we get to enjoy them for free. No work. No fuss. Just gorgeous flowers in our backyard!

53 - MOUNTAIN ALDER

What I Already Knew: This deciduous tree as alternate rounded leaves with toothed edges. Female catkins open to release seeds similar to the manner of many conifer cones - and the one often see what looks like tiny cones on the cones.

What I Recently Learned: This tree is a relative of the Birch. Early pioneers used the plant as an indicator of running water as its roots require year round moisture. The wood is extremely decay resistant under water. Some Canadian Natives used the wood to make bows, snowshoes and fish nets. Since its smoke has no flavor, it has also been used for smoking meat. More recently the wood has become popular among guitar manufacturers for its ‘bright tone.'

Native Americans are said to have used a poultice made from the bark to treat burns and scrapes. They also used the inner bark in treatments for stomach irritations. Blackfeet Indians used the bark infusion to treat tuberculosis and lymphatic disorders and, in fact, science has shown red alder compounds are effective against tumors.

It is also beneficial to the soil because it provides nitrogen for other species.

54 - NODDING ONION

What I Already Knew: This is one of the loveliest onions I have ever seen. Clearly the Nodding Onion has a lot of class. It grows from a bulb(I found these specimens on an east facing slope just north of the lodge) has a smooth stem which is round and leafless reaching 6 to 20 inches in height.

Crooking the top of this stem a flowerhead consisting of individual white or pinkish flowers. Certainly the flowers' most distinctive feature are their six yellow-tipped stamens which protrude beyond the flowers' three petals and three petal-like sepals.

What I Recently Learned: Boasting more than lovely flowers, this plant is a true onion. Somewhat mild and sweet flavored when cooked, it is strong when raw. The lovely heads make a nice addition to any salad bowl. Medicinally the plant's juice was given to Native American children for hives, croup, colds, and sore throat. A poultice of chewed plants was applied to the chest for similar complaints as well as sores and swelling. And before moth balls, the entire plant was used to repel moths and moles with the juice being used to repel mosquitoes and other biting insects (although, in a pinch, I've had less than great success using chive juice to repel these pests).

55 - BOOTH'S WILLOW

What I Already Knew: We have a variety of willows around Elk Lake. I will attempt to identify three in this post - although the identification photos and descriptions available on the web left me pulling my hair in frustration!

Like several others, this will has lance shaped leaves with a shiny top surface. It grows 9 to 18 feet tall, requires high moisture and is shade tolerant while preferring full sunlight. It grows well alongside other willow species.

What I Recently Learned: Willows are unique in that they develop roots along the entire portion of a buried stem cutting within 10 - 15 days after planting. Thus they do not need to be rooted before planting although unrooted cuttings do have a higher mortality rate. Willow thickets are often used for erosion control.

56 - MOUNTAIN ASH

What I Already Knew: This plant does not live right here (although it is common in western and central Montana). This is because it prefers - 4000 - 5000 elevation. It produces bouquets of lovely white flowers in June. It grows 3 to 16 feet tall. Reddish-brown stems have alternate long narrow leaves with fine toothed edges.

What I Recently Learned: Although bitter and mealy, its berries are high in Vitamin C and have been used to prevent scurvy, as a gargle to treat colds, or used to remedy hemorrhoids. The tree's wood is dense and is used for carving and turning to make tool handles and walking sticks. Its thin bark does not survive fire well. Some ancient peoples considered the tree good protection against evil. For this reason Druid staffs were usually made from this wood. Today the fruit is occasionally used to make wine or a jelly to use with cold game or wild fowl.

57 - DOUGLAS FIR

What I Already Knew: Cones have unique 3-lobed brackets sticking out between scales. The cones hang down rather than point up as in a true fir. Douglas Fir wood is known for its strength and is a desired wood for construction. It is also the most commonly marketed Christmas tree. It is certainly one of the most lovely evergreen trees in our area.

What I Recently Learned: True firs are most closely related to cedars. However, Douglas Fir is not a true fir as it is actually of the pine family. Scientists struggling to classify the species have created its own sub-class: Pseudotsuga (False Hemlock).

Medicinal the resin obtained from the tree's trunk has been used to treat cuts, burns, wounds, and skin ailments. It has also been used to treat coughs and sore throats. An infusion of the green bark has been used to treat stomach problems. An infusion of young sprouts is used by some to treat colds. An infusion of the twigs or shoots has uses for treating kidney & bladder problems. Young shoots have placed in shoe tips to prevent athletes foot and foot perspiration. People have even soaked the young shoots in cold water to make mouthwash.

58 - GEYER'S WILLOW

What I Already Knew: (Same disclaimer applies :-) This willow shares habitat well with other trees and shrubs although it does tend to form a thicket. It is commonly seen in the Teton area. It is also called Silver Willow and will reach about 15 feet tall.

What I Recently Learned: Willow bark has been chewed since ancient times to reduce inflamation and fever. Today in China and Europe it is used for treating low back pain and osteoarthritis, joint inflamation, and headaches. While pain relief from its use comes slower than aspirin, it seems to last longer. In SW Montana this willow is said to make up 11.2% of some cattle herd's diet.

59 - BEBB'S WILLOW

What I Already Knew: A small tree, this willow only reaches 10 to 20 feet tall. It has smooth reddish bark and 1 to 3 inch long oblong shaped leaves, sparingly toothed, a dull green above with distinct veins and hairy underneath. It prefers stream borders. Warblers, flycatchers and other songbirds make their homes in these plants.

What I Recently Learned: It was named after Michael Schuck Bebb first person to formally study this species. It is also known as Grey Willow because of the bark color. It is the most common of the ‘Diamond Willows' - a species which produces reddish brown ‘diamonds' of wood from cankers. Artists particularly enjoy using diamond willow branches for carving highlighting the light and dark woods The wood is used for furniture, canes, and picture frames. Some weave the smaller shoots into chairs and baskets.

60 - LYALL'S BEARDTONGUE (AKA FUZZYTONGUE) PENSTEMON

What I Already Knew- The staminode takes a variety of forms in the different species; while typically a long straight filament extending to the mouth of the corolla, some are longer and extremely hairy, giving the general appearance of an open mouth with a fuzzy tongue protruding and inspiring the common name beardtongue. The 5 - 15 inch stem has narrow, hairy leaves which may have toothed edges. Flower colors ran from light lavender to dark violet. The three lower lobes have purplish veins which work to guide nectar seeking insects into the flowers' interior. Prefers dry rocky soils and sagebrush slopes

What I Recently Learned: This plant grows in the foothills and mid elevatons in the mountains of north Idaho and adjacent Montana, British Columbia and Alberta. In most of its range it is rare or uncommon - which I find shocking because I have found it in lush profusion in many places around Elk Lake. It is a perennial. Native American's used Penstemon roots to relieve toothache.

So, while the snow carpets the ground around Elk Lake, these pictures remind me the flowers are merely resting for awhile. Come next spring and summer (and even into fall), their lovely colors will paint a beautiful mosiac around my lakeside home.

Lady of the Lake

The "Sweeter" Side Of Life

2012-01-11T09:14:00.000-07:00

Some would say cooking is my life. They might be right. One way or the other, for some time I have talked and dreamed about doing a post about food! I have done posts on things we have made - most recently all the pies we created for Nick & Sara's June 2011 wedding. But an idea has been rattling around in my brain to share a recipe - along with photos and the techniques which combine to make it great. Furthermore, as needed, I find it fascinating to learn and share why certain techniques work and why others do not.

For my grand opening, I will share a new recipe. This recipe is one I developed from another recipe. Living at Elk Lake, if I do not have the proper ingredients, I have to improvise. I have learned to stock my pantry shelves to bulging, bending, burdened excess. Nonetheless, sometimes I have to get creative. Thankfully I now have a decent idea of what will work and what will not work!

Today's Recipe: Apple - Cranberry Muffins. I am well aware that if you Google "Apple Cranberry Muffins" you will get over two pages of recipes. This is the MAJOR problem (in my opinion) with our electronic age. How do I know which recipe to use? How do I know which is the best?

While I will not claim to have the ‘best' recipe, I do not think this recipe will not let you down. So, without further ado:

Apple-Cranberry Muffins

Makes 12 to 16 Muffins

3 2/3 cups pastry flour, sifted
1 1/3 TB baking powder
1 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 freshly ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp salt
8 TB butter, chilled, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 1/3 cups Baker's Sugar
4 large eggs, at room temperature, beaten
15 oz applesauce (I prefer the homemade chunky kind)
1 cup Craisins

Position an oven rack in the center and preheat your oven to 400 degrees. (If using regular muffin pans, brush the cup insides and top of with butter. If using silicone pans, skip this step *more on this to follow*.)

Sift together flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Beat the butter in the bowl of a free-standing mixer with the paddle attachment on high speed until creamy (about 1 minute). Gradually beat in the sugar. Continue to beat, scraping the bowl often, until the mixture is very light in color and texture (about 5 minutes).

Beat in the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Reduce mixer speed to low and add the applesauce. The mixture make take on a curdled look. In thirds, beat in the flour mixture, scraping the bowl sides often. Mix until smooth. Add the Craisins. Increase the speed to high and beat about 15 seconds until the batter has a slight sheen.

Using an ice-cream scoop (about 2½ inches in diameter), divide the batter between 12 to 16 buttered muffin tins. Bake for 10 minutes. Do not open oven. Reduce heat to 375 degrees and cook until tops are browning and skewer inserted into center comes out clean (about 15 minutes).

Cool in cups for 10 minutes. Remove to wire racks. Enjoy warm or at room temperature.

*I can not help but plug my new favorite cookware. Silicone! Before a friend introduced me to this amazing kitchen tool, I assumed those flimsy ‘molds' were plastic (and we all know to avoid cooking in plastic!) However, silicone bakeware is made from silica - the same ingredient in glass bakeware. And while removing baked goods from glass or metal baking dishes can some times be a nightmare, removing the same items from silicone baking dishes is pure delight! Furthermore, silicone can change the entire ‘look' of your baked goods as you can see above.

PLEASE NOTE: Some of the photos on this page do not belong to me. Thus I ask you to NOT copy any of them.

Now, back to the recipe. Like I said, the ‘why' is half the fun. So, I want to highlight a few things which make this recipe unique and why the recipe benefits from these specific ingredients and processes.

These muffins call for creaming butter and sugar. While this is not common to muffin recipes, homemade cakes often require this process. My response: ‘Why?'

Creaming butter and sugar incorporates the maximum amount of air bubbles into the fat. The trapped air expands in the baking process to result in a light textured end product. When a recipe calls for creaming, do not skip this step.

As you can see in the butter image above, you want your fat cold! If the butter is warm, the milk solids will separate and will not hold the air bubbles. Instead of starting with the room temperature butter often called for in many recipes which use the creaming process, this recipe softens and warms the cold butter slightly by beating the butter before adding the sugar.

If the butter is warm, the milk solids will separate rendering them incapable of holding the air bubbles. Even cold butter can warm too much during the beating process. The regular bowl scraping required by this recipe keeps portions of the fat from getting too warm.

When your butter and sugar are properly creamed, it will look like this. As you can see the mixer's paddle will leave distinct marks, the color will lighten noticeably, and the consistency will be very smooth.

This recipe calls for Baker's Sugar. Also known as superfine sugar, Baker's Sugar has a finer crystal which distributes more evenly throughout the batter and results in a smoother textured finished product.

If you do not have superfine sugar, you can make your own. Whirl regular sugar in your food processor until it breaks down into smaller particles (this does not take long).

After beating in the eggs, it is time to add the flour. Again this recipe calls for a ‘special' flour - Pastry Flour. If you have done much baking, you probably have Cake Flour on your shelf. However, Pastry Flour is a somewhat uncommon ingredient. So, what is it? Is it necessary? What if I don't have it on my shelf?

Pastry flour is a higher starch, lower protein flour most similar to Cake Flour. It is used when a very tender product is desired. If you have Cake Flour but do not have Pastry Flour, do not assume Cake Flour will provide the same result. While Cake Flour is a better substitute than All-Purpose Flour, you can make your own Pastry Flour by combining half Cake Flour and half All-Purpose Flour.

Now it's time to bake and eat. But, the fresh baked muffins in their silicone molds look too good to eat - almost.

Actually the final product looks simply delightful - and, it is pretty good, even if I say so myself. However, I want to point out how nice they look. This is another thing I really like about my new silicone bakeware. Look how evenly browned. Look at the perfect sides - no holes from batter stuck to the pan. No tacky paper cup to ruin the overall picture. Just pretty muffins which look as good as they taste.

Thanks for visiting my kitchen. If you enjoyed the post and wish to see more, drop me a note. If you try the recipe and find it to your liking (or not), send me a message. If silicone baking pans interest you and you'd like more information, let me know.

Lady of the Lake

A Moose Comes To Call

2012-01-04T14:52:00.000-07:00

Moose are a regular part of our lives in the Centennial Valley. Thus I was not at all surprised to read the following on the Greater Yellowstone Resource Guide: "The Greater Yellowstone region hosts some of the most productive Shiras Moose photography, viewing and hunting in the west." While numerous issues have had a negative impact on the Yellowstone National Park moose population, the Centennial Valley's moose population remains strong. However, while they are regular winter visitors on the resort grounds and around the lake, they do not usually venture as close the rest of the year.

So, when I heard Bo barking early one morning this past September, I did NOT expect to see a moose coming in the gate. Yet this guy seemed deaf to the dog's warning. In fact, while he paused as though reading our sign (See the yellow oval to the left of the moose? It read "Open By Reservation Only"), he slowly continued in the gate.

A few feet inside, he paused. Perhaps he wondered whether his 'reservations' were up to date. Perhaps he finally heard Bo. Perhaps he just did not see a lady worth his time.

While I can only speculate what might have been going on in his head, he certainly looked to be deliberating his options. Looking right. Looking left. Ears on full alert.

Bo kept his distance (he is 'moose smart'), but did not quiet down. I continued to hide beside the lodge (but I doubt he was unaware of my presence). And, no lady moose materialized to tempt him in further.

Something just didn't feel right (which, quite frankly, made me quite happy. A fully adorned bull moose sliding into rut is not what I want hanging around my yard). So, in the blink of an eye he whirled and headed out the gate.

Clearly this moose was no fool. A road leading directly into the refuge. A whiff of the ladies on the breeze. Our morning visitor wasted no time hitting the south road.

Who knows what goes on in a moose's mind? Why stop for a dip? Because he is a moose and moose like water is my best guess. When Mr. Moose headed south, my hubby jumped on the ATV and went looking for more photo opps. Just outside the resort boundaries he found our visitor wading in the lake's shallows.

The more time we spent around this guy, the more we were convinced he had one thing and only one thing on his mind - the ladies! While my hubby clicked away, Mr. Moose drew closer and closer - again apparently oblivious to his close proximity to a two-legged critter. Finally hubby started his ATV - maybe he would hear what he appeared not to see. Still the moose advanced!

Finally he seemed to wake from his stupor. "What is that thing blocking my path? I don't like his look." So he changed direction, heading west to the shore.

Even a moose can only take so much attention. "These paparazzi are nothing short of annoying! Can't a guy have any peace? This photo opp is definitely OVER!" With that, Mr. Moose swung south then headed west over the ridge and, eventually I am sure, into the refuge.

Just another 'normal' day at Elk Lake. I must admit, I just can't get too much of this. What a privilege to share my extended backyard with an animal that beautiful - that majestic - that unique!

Lady of the Lake

2011-12-28T18:37:00.000-07:00

Earthquake Lake - Part Two

A visit to Earthquake Lake is a grave reminder of nature's power. Forty million (that's million) cubic yards (or to put it in other terms: 80 million cubic tons - that's 160,000,000,000 pounds) of rock and dirt slid, with hurricane force off the mountainside south of the Madison River. Crashing to the valley floor with thundrous force, the slide continued 400 feet UP the opposite side. The dislodged material moved at speeds in excess of 100 mph creating gale force winds which flipped cars, uprooted trees, and literally blew people out of their clothes - and some to their deaths. Furthermore the displaced river became a wall of water which swept away everything in its path.

Looking at the slide today, things seem pretty tame - until you realize the dirt upon which you stand on used to make up part of the mountain you are viewing. Then pause and consider the lack of regrowth on that mountain across the way in the last 60 years. Having seen how creation, given enough time, can 'heal' itself, the devastation caused in that brief 60 seconds back in 1959 begins to take on a little perspective.

A couple of HUGE boulders, once a prominent part of the rock formations on the southern mountain's face, rode the slide as it rushed north. My 9-year-old son, dreaming of some far-distant (I hope) future rock climbing days, gives some perspective to this giant's size.

This sign says it all. :"This 3000 ton [that's 6 million pounds] Dolomite boulder rode the crest of the slide across the canyon. Undisturbed lichens on its side . . . indicate it did not roll or tumble while crossing."

Twenty-eight people lost their lives that night. Nineteen are presumed buried under the tons of rock below the Memorial Boulder which bears their names. As you can see, the quake claimed entire families.

Everything about this quake is so BIG. It is hard to get a true perspective. Consider it this way. Many people like to incorporate rock into their landscaping projects. It seems the bigger your house, the more money you have to spend on landscaping, or just the more 'serious' you are about creating a natural - appearing landscape, the larger the native material used. However, this rock would dwarf a large house! It took an earthquake to move it!

Sometimes it is easy to lose the 'tree perspective' in a 'forest' this large. Perhaps that is what makes this tragedy so hard to comprehend. Huge rocks. Massive landslids. Things we struggle to put into perspective are brought down to size when we add the personal stories. Several people lost their lives. Every story carries a weight of sorrow which makes that giant rock seem small.

Yet I think the stories hardest to bear are the almost 'freakish' instances, in which some were lost while others escaped without a scratch. What makes the story attached to the photo above so personal is, while Elk Lake escaped virtually unscathed (not one glass remained unbroken but not one person was injured), this tragedy occured at Cliff Lake (just a short jaunt North along the Chain of Lakes).

Other families caught in the throws of nature's violence suffered doubly. The Bennett's story is perhaps the most dramatic. Retold in simple terms in Irene's book "Out of The Night" (which I reviewed in a recent post), the Bennetts suffered greatly. Camping downstream of the slide, Irene looked up in time to see her husband literally blown away by the slide-created winds. Regaining consciousness hours later, she found she the wind and water had stripped her clothes, carried her downstream, and deposited her under debris. Only Irene and her eldest son, Phil, (shown in this historic photo) survived the ordeal.

Yet, by God's grace, time does heal - a lot. Nothing ever erases the pain completely. Just like this mountain side (I am looking across to the slide with the Memorial Boulder on the center rigth of the photo) will never return to what it was, those who lost loved ones will never escape the hole left by their passing - yet beauty remains, if we will only look.

Signs of the earthquake's devastation are everywhere. Dead trees. Barren rock mountainsides. Gravel filled river beds. Yet the beauty is still jaw-dropping. Perhaps that is part of the healing - that heart's once broken can find beauty and joy in all that devastation. This certainly seemed to be a recurring theme in the survivor's stories (retold in "Cataclysm" - reviewed in a previous post).

There is much more to see. I have a couple dozen historic photos I have not shared - photos which recount more of earthquake's destruction. However, only the morbid mind prefers to dwell on the dark when surrounded by such beauty. Only the mind still lost in tragedy cannot appreciate creation's grandeur. Thankfully I do not traverse a dark path haunted by personal tragedy. Thus I walked away from Earthquake Lake humbled by my impotence yet inspired by God's glory reflected, even in mountain-scapes created by devastation.

Lady of the Lake

2011-12-23T15:36:00.000-07:00

Earthquake Lake - Part One

I don't know how things work for you, but I have this terrible habit of exploring everything but my own 'backyard'. Of course I have amended this in many ways while living at Elk Lake. In fact, I know as much of my backyard as can be reached on foot from the lodge quite well.
However, in Montana 'backyard' is often defined on a much larger scale. In fact, when you realize we consider folks in Island Park, Idaho and West Yellowstone, Montana and even Dillon and Ennis, Montana "neighbors", well, maybe the idea is coming clear.
So, in keeping with my amended ways, I have spent a bit more time exploring my more extended backyard. In recent posts I have shared trips to Virginia City and Nevada City (just over the hill from Ennis and a workable day-trip from Elk Lake). I have shared our excursion on Lower Red Rock Lake (I shared an adventure on Upper Lake months ago). And, while I cannot see Virginia City and Nevada City from Elk Lake, I can see Upper and Lower Lakes and Earthquake Lake (known around here as Quake Lake) from a nearby high point. This, alone, makes them seem closer to home.
Thus late this summer I stopped by the Earthquake Lake Visitor Center and took a look around. Having driven past several times in the past, I was surprised at how much I had missed. Not only does the Visitor Center offer a plethera of information, the auto tour along 287 and the walking tour at the Visitor Center offer much to enlighten those who slow down and look.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, my interest in the Earthquake which caused such devistation in 1959 really began in the Virginia City Museum. Some of the historic photos I will share in the next two posts were found there. Others came from the Visitor's Center. The map shown above highlights the primary 'points of interest' on the driving tour.

The auto tour begins at the spillway. This spillway was created - in a hurry (which still took two months) - by the Army Corps of Engineers. When the mountain slid down and blocked the Madison River, it set into motion a couple dangerous scenarios. One, the rising waters threatened businesses and homes upstream. Two, no one knew how much pressure the new 'dam' could handle. Granted it was a mile wide and more than half a mile through, but at some point the water, if left alone, would overtop it. Then what? Would it break through and send a massive flood into the Madison Valley and downstream to Ennis?

No one knew for sure - and therein lay the danger. So, they made the decision: Build a spillway and release some of the pressure. Thus began the work on the original channel - 250 feet wide by 14 feet deep. By Septmber 17th, water once again flowed into the dry riverbed below the landslide. Yet the engineers were not content. The channel needed to be deeper. Therefore the Army Corps deepened the channel to 50 feet, a project they completed on October 29, 1959.

The third point on the auto tour offers one a beautiful view of the lake looking Southwest. The dead trees stand in mute testimony to the devistation caused by the lake's rising waters. While the water level is slowly dropping (as the channel cut by the Corps of Engineers erodes), at the time the auto tour brochure was printed, the lake was 6 miles long and 190 feet deep.

Not only is the auto tour beautiful; not only does it tell stories hard to imagine; it also offers a lot of interesting scientific information. This particular sign, in part, says: "At 11:37 p.m. on August 17, 1959, a 7.5 earthquake shook this area and triggered a massive landslide. Rushing currents of the Madison River were blocked and churned behind the massive rock dam created by the slide. The water rose quickly submerging Rock Creek Campground by 6:30 a.m. the following morning. The landscape instantly changed, lives were lost, and a lake was formed. The eerie trees you see in the middle of the lake are reminders of the dynamic forces which formed Earthquake Lake."

There were 250 people in the canyon that night. They went to sleep carefree. They woke trapped! The situation went from bad to worse. Imagine the noise. The terror. The pandemonium. The DARK! In the confusion people headed for high ground. Only as the night wore to an end would they learn not only could they not get out, rescuers could not get in!

Injured people needed assistance. Fortunately one person trapped on this high point was a nurse who had just completed a trauma first aid class (for more about this heroric woman, I recommend the book "Cataclysm" which I reviewed in my last post). However, as sunrise shed its light upon the scene, Forest Service smoke jumpers were finally able to parachute in to assist with the injured.

While the current Cabin Creek Scarp area, next stop on the auto tour, is much too beautiful to imagine the destructive forces which formed the 21 foot vertical displacement shown above, this historic photo shows the dramatic shift in the earth's crust which occured that fateful night.

Rising water - Destroyed roads - Displaced vacationers - Homeless residents. These were only part of the problems found at daylight. Not far from the earthquakes epi-center, and just upstream from the massive slide, stood the Hebgen Lake Dam. This earthen dam had sustained substantial damage - how much no one really knew. In the end the dam would hold. If it had not - well, the story could have ended much differently!
Imagine you are carrying a flat pan of water across your kitchen. Just before you reach the sink, you bump your elbow. What happens to the water in your pan is exactly what happened (on a much grander scale) to the water in Hebgen Lake. In some places the ground dropped 20 feet. The shifting ground created tidal waves which surged over Hebgen Dam and overcame anything within their reach. It took at least 12 hours for the waves to subside. Thankfully the dam held.
But, the earthquake not only caused the lake's bottom to drop, it also tilted the land under the lake. Back to our pan of water illustration, not only did you bump your elbow, but in reaction to the pain, you raised one side of the pan. Hebgen Lake's north shore raised 19 feet! So much for lakefront property!

The next stop is called "Building Destruction". I must admit, the name was less than inspiring - in fact, it seemed quite boring. However, the story told on this sign is less than boring. In fact, it is downright amazing!

As one might expect, many buildings were destroyed during the night. However, one of the most unique stories is of a woman whose home was dumped into the lake. In fact, her dog may be the real hero of the story.

The final photo from our auto tour is a historic shot taken where the Red Canyon Scarp destroyed a section of Highway 191. Thankfully no one in the car was injured when the driver plunged off the unseen six foot dropoff.
In my next post I will share more photos and information from my explorations around this dramatic natural disaster which nature has again returned to an amazingly beautiful, tranquil setting.
I find it hard to believe this is just another one of the things I find in my big backyard!
Lady of the Lake

A Few Good Books

2011-12-06T06:57:00.001-07:00

I am breaking out of the mold a bit with this post. While I usually talk about what is happened out-of-doors, this time I am going to cover a few excursions I have enjoyed while never leaving the warmth found indoors.

As regular readers will attest, I am not much for staying in. However, when the temperature drops into the single digits - and below - it is sometimes nice to curl up in a comfy chair with a warm beverage and a good book.

Furthermore, I have lived in the Centennial Valley several years now. While my knowledge of our local history is not completely lacking, I have yearned to learn more about the general area. With that impetus, I began searching for books about (or set in) this vicinity.

What I’ve unearthed, so far, is not necessarily limited to my own back yard (and I use that term very loosely). Some of my more recent reads were located in the Colorado Rockies. Yet, the ‘spirit’ of the writer, their hardships and triumphs, and even their love for this wild country speaks strongly to my own passion and experiences.

With the turn of each page, I have found friends - traveled to known (and newly discovered) locations - experienced life as I know it or, on some occasions, as I’m glad I do not have to know it. Thus, from time to time, I plan to share the books I am enjoying. They will vary greatly in genre and topic, but they are all united by a common thread - that fragile link which ties us to a place and draws our hearts back to the place we call home.

THE NATURE OF MIDNIGHT

Author: Robert Rice

Genre: Murder Mystery

Setting: Ennis - McAlister - Norris area

I must admit, I opened this book because the author is one of our guests. Not until this summer did I learn he is a writer, The Nature Of Midnight being his third novel. So, out of pure curiosity I picked up a copy in Bozeman.

His story did not disappoint. In fact, Bob did a great job keeping his readers on the edge of their seats, frantically turning the page to see what happens next.

As the cover suggests, the story centers around some lost letters from a by-gone era. These letters may re-write history as we know it. Yet, as so often happens, more than one person is interested in these letters. Thus the books is a true murder mystery with a few casualties and several close calls.

This story is well-written. The story line is even more interesting if you are at all familiar with Ennis, McAllister, Norris or Hwy 84 between Norris and Bozeman. I’d recommend this book to all you mystery fans out there!

INCIDENT AT BIG SKY

Author: Johnny France & Malcolm McConnell

Genre: True Crime

Setting: Big Sky - Ennis - Norris

Several guests recommended this book before I finally purchased a copy. I must admit, I felt a bit chagrined when I realized a key player in this true story has stayed at Elk Lake several times. Perhaps, however, it is best I didn’t know. Notoriety is good - but only to a point. Most people come to Elk Lake to escape the ‘real’ world!

The one disclaimer I think should always accompany any "true" story written from only ONE person’s perspective is: “This is one person’s take on what happened.” I add that not because I believe the story to be inaccurate. I have no reason to doubt what lies between this hefty book's covers. Yet, like any other true story, there is more than one side. Perhaps, if I were to hear the other side, the story might sound a little different. I suspect I’ll never know - and not knowing certainly doesn’t detract from the story's appeal.

They say truth can be stranger than fiction. Certainly this applies to Johnny’s story. From beginning to end, the manhunt (for the events leading up to the manhunt are really just a small introduction to the real story) retold in this tale read more like a novelist’s nightmare than real life.

I would recommend this story to anyone interested in one of the most bizarre happenings in our quiet corner of Montana. Like any well-written tale, the author does not need to dwell on violence, blood and gore to keep you riveted.

LETTERS OF A WOMAN HOMESTEADER

Author: Elinore Pruitt Stewart

Genre: True History

Setting: Colorado’s Eastern Rocky Mountain Front

I stumbled across this book while searching for another recommended on a friend’s blog. Both are true stories. Both are based on one woman’s experience in the Colorado Rockies during the prior century. I believe Elinor's book may have been ‘adapted’ a bit, but if so, it still brings forth the flavor of the letters written by the author.

While not as riveting as Incident At Big Sky nor as beautifully written as the other book (which I’ll review at a later date), Elinore’s tale is very interesting. Of course, the story does not take place anywhere near the Centennial Valley. So, why read it? Because Elinor experienced life not so different from what I expect many homesteaders in Southwest Montana experienced.

Elinore’s story intrigued me because, like Lillian Hackett Hanson Culver (a very local homesteader) Elinore made the drastic decision to move not only herself but her young child west - at a time when the west wasn’t friendly to men, let alone women and children. Furthermore, like Lillian Culver, Elinore Stewart moved west to keep house - in Elinore’s case, for a bachelor rancher. And, like Lillian, Elinore had a lot of backbone - and a healthy independent streak. I admire these women and thus recommend Elinor's story to you.

CATACLYSM: WHEN HUMAN STORIES MEET EARTH”S FAULTS

Author: Douglas W. Huigen

Genre: True Tragedy

Setting: Earthquake Lake, Montana

In an upcoming post (or two), I plan to share a place I think every visitor to the Yellowstone area should visit: Earthquake Lake. The natural beauty is breathtaking, of course. However, something more makes Earthquake Lake a must see. For, here, in 1959, one of the largest earthquakes in US history triggered the 2nd largest landslide in North America.

I had driven past the visitor’s center many times. However, during this summer's visit to Virginia City and Nevada City I found numerous photos taken after this devastating natural disaster. Curiosity aroused, I determined to stop at the visitor center before it closed for the season.

The stories. The pictures. The facts. They all combine to make one pause and count their blessings. I’m not one to ‘worry’ about natural disaster. Thus it did not bother me to realize how close I live to several serious fault lines. Such is life!

Yet the more I learned, the more I wanted to ‘meet’ the people whose lives were forever changed those many years ago. So, I picked up two books. The visitor's center staff recommend Cataclysm. It is well written and thoroughly researched. It covers many aspects - not only the real stories, but also the area geography. This makes it a worthwhile read.

OUT OF THE NIGHT

Author: Irene Bennett Dunn

Genre: True Tragedy

Setting: Earthquake Lake - Ennis

While Out Of The Night does not contain the quality of writing found in Cataclysm, Neither is the story line the best. However, the real life experiences, the emotions, the impacts of that terrible earthquake are adequately recorded by this real life survivor who lost most of her family on that fateful night. If for no other reason, this makes the story is worth reading.

PS - Have you read a favorite book which highlights either the Greater Yellowstone area or the Rocky Mountains in general? Was it worth sharing? If so, I’d love to hear about it!

Flashes Of Fall

2011-11-25T21:47:00.001-07:00

In most places the harvest season drifts slowly into place before twisting and twirling to its winter resting place. However, fall comes early to Montana’s high mountain valleys, and it can have a weightier personality. Furthermore it can be an unpredictable visitor. Some years autumn passes so quickly, it seems to last less time than it takes to say the word. Other years the season lingers, filling our days with delightful colors, brisk days, crisp nights and the unmistakable fresh and musky scents one associates with the time of year. But, when fall lingers, winter often swings by to drape its white mantle across the season’s glorious mane.

Thus it is not unusual to watch the sunset burnish falls golds and reds but wake to a sunrise throwing a pink hue on a world gone white. It is an almost breathtaking experience - one which reminds us of winter’s coming glories yet leaves us longing for a few more glorious hours basking in autumn’s golden glow.

This fall we experienced the full spectrum from full-blown harvest colors to winter wonderland and back again - all within a few hours. One day heavy, wet snowflakes fell fast and furious for several hours.

Two days later we were back in fall’s warm embrace, but now we were could enjoy the season's shades of red and gold against the mountains' powdered sugar backdrop.

Nevada City Montana - A Ghost Town Worth Seeing

2011-11-16T12:59:00.001-07:00

Nevada City, Montana has a fun and interesting history. Like its close neighbor, Virginia City, its origins are tied to the Alder City gold rush of 1863. Unlike Virginia City, which I covered in my last post, Nevada City is the quintessential ghost town.

If you have visited many ghost towns, you know to use the term quite loosely. A ‘ghost town’ can be anything from an old-looking town filled with tourist traps to a few falling down buildings filled with packrat and cobwebs.

Nevada City falls somewhere in between. While a handful of hardy merchants ply their trade in a smattering of old buildings (old ones where pack rats sometimes share the space!), the majority of the ‘town’ is a collection of beautifully arranged and restored buildings from near and far.

A town map, available for .pdf download from Virginia City’s website), gives one a bird’s eye view of this amazing collection. Forty-seven buildings laid out on ‘platted’ streets reflect the original Nevada City era. Many buildings have been brought in from other areas. Some have been transformed from their original use. Yet all nicely represent the area’s numerous little towns which garnered the name ‘Fourteen Mile City’.

PLEASE NOTE: The photos which follow do not belong to me. I took many pictures. I cannot access any! Thankfully my wonderful friend shared her photos so this blog could become a reality. Thus - enjoy, but, please, do NOT copy any of the photos in this post.

It seems appropriate the Nevada City tour begins at the Music Hall. The tunes which flow from this fine collection of old instruments sets just the right tone. This photo (taken by Jim Stettner) shows one of the many beautiful instruments which grace this collection - the largest in North America.

Were it not for two families - the Frank Finney family (see below) and the Charles Bovey family (whose collection of all things old - buildings and etc. - formed the basis for modern-day Nevada City - this lovely ghost town would not exist. In fact, had Bovey not been asked to move his collection from the Great Falls area in 1959, Nevada City’s memory might have blown into oblivion.

In 1997 Montana state purchased the Bovey’s holdings in Virginia City and Nevada City, forever protecting them from destruction. While the process is slow, each year improvements are made. And, from the dust of distant days rises a town filled with memories of the homes, people, and livelihoods upon which Montana is built.

One fine example of a ‘gentleman’s house’ is the Frank Finney house. The home’s unpainted clapboard siding blends beautifully with the circling cottonwoods. This home’s prominent place is very appropriate. Not only does it reflect the finer life enjoyed by some, were it not for the Finney family, Nevada City might have gone the way of so many ghost towns - fading into the past like a dried up leaf whose memory shattered and disappeared altogether.

This buggy which likely traveled many miles in its first life now resides in Nevada City’s wagon shop. While I am not certain, it is possible this vehicle is a remnant from the Butte Carriage Works. The wagon shop has an interesting history - but not what one might expect. This huge building, the largest in town, once served as a dining room for visitors to Yellowstone Park’s Canyon Lodge.

From 1911 until 1959, Park guests dined in this large structure. Thankfully, instead of disappearing into Yellowstone’s dust or being condemned to the fire, this old building found a new purpose in modern-day Nevada City.

Several old vehicles - both from the horse and buggy days and a few newer models - grace the grounds or can be found in the area barns. While I know nothing about this old car, the Dimsdale School is a Nevada City original. This dug-out building housed the town’s first school. Named after Edward Dimsdale, a gentle, quiet Englishman who died at a mere 35 years old, this vintage 1863 building served as the educational center for local children.

The Iron Rod Post Office came from the now-defunct town of Iron Rod (near present day Silver Star, Montana). It has an interesting history - so interesting I will quote directly from the Nevada City map linked to above:

“In 1873 a federal postal inspector stopped at the Iron Rod Post Office and was aghast to find the local mail facilities sandwiched between a salon and a fargo bank. The mail was brought in and dumped on the floor, and everyone took what they wanted. The agent, inquiring for the postmaster, was told by the bartender that the postmaster was out hunting gold. The official then demanded the keys to the post office, and the bartender took a candle box, containing what mail was left over, kicked it out the door, and told the agent in no uncertain terms, “There’s your post office, now get!” He ‘got’, but Iron Rod lost its post office until 1876.”

As you can tell, the town’s ‘history’ has been brought to life, not just by the buildings and their furnishing, but also by the descriptive stories and vignettes from the area’s past one finds on the Nevada City Map.

Not only does Nevada City boast a town-worth collection of old buildings, many of the buildings are furnished with time-appropriate items - some in significant detail. This old school came from Twin Bridges. It is reputed to be the oldest standing public school.

Since this school was in operation from 1867 to 1873, Nevada City’s school system obviously was not connected to the Montana public school system - or the system had not yet been organized (perhaps because the area was still a territory) - in 1863. The Dimsdale school building, which stands nearby, is older - but does not carry this piece of ‘renown.’

Perhaps the most photographed building in Nevada City is the two-story outhouse, fondly nicknamed “Big John.” Another Nevada City original Big John is attached to the Nevada City Hotel. While the original hotel burned (a common problem in these wooden villages), the outhouse appears to have survived.

The thought of using a two-story outhouse makes me quite uncomfortable - unless, of course, I have access to the upper unit. However, these old outhouses were quite ingenious. The lower occupant did not have to wear combat gear as the upstairs deposits funneled down a shoot behind the lower seat. Nonetheless, wood doesn’t seem to be the best or most sanitary conductor of waste. Thus I suspect, if nothing else, the smell could be quite overpowering - particularly in the lower chamber.

This ‘hotel unit’ is one of several old cabins moved in from nearby locations. All original pioneer cabins built between 1863 to 1900, they offer a nice look at pioneer living conditions. This one seems a bit ‘damp’ for Montana’s wet springs. Notice, however, the cactus intermingled with the native grasses. That’s one way to keep the kids off the roof!

The Eberl blacksmith shop is another vintage building brought in from elsewhere. Smoky Eberl worked in Augusta, Montana. One of his many blacksmithing talents included creating brands for local ranchers. Because he always tried out his creations on the buildings doors and walls, this blacksmith shop is well-branded!

No town is complete without a graveyard. After all, everyone ends up occupying some space somewhere. Furthermore, tombstones often reveal much about the lives there memorialized. While Nevada City does not have a cemetery, Boot Hill in nearby Virginia City is worth a look.

The remains of five outlaws rest herein - but, what seems more than odd is the grave of a couple - William and Clara Dalton - also mark this hilltop. Is there a connection? Were they notorious criminals as well?

No. This humble grave, unmarked for many years, is merely the final resting place of a Maine couple who traveled with their family to Montana gold fields via California. Sadly enough, they died soon after arriving, leaving their four children to fend for themselves in this difficult time and place!

Obviously this town plays a role now which is, perhaps, even more important than its original. Every one of the structures preserved in present-day Nevada City represents an important piece of our past. Charles and Sue Bovey were visionaries before their time. Their efforts (which are now continued by the state) have created a living, breathing town which transports its visitors back a hundred years and more. I recommend it highly!

Lady of the Lake

Visiting Virginia City

2011-11-10T08:57:00.001-07:00

“It was about four o'clock in the afternoon on May 26, 1863, when a ragged, trail-weary party of six men decided to make camp beside a mountain stream whose course they had been following since early morning. The men knew they were only a few days away from the gold camp of Bannack, which they had left in early February. Since leaving Bannack, they had experienced a series of ill-fated adventures; including their failure to rendezvous with a larger party of prospectors led by James Stuart, and being captured by warriors of the Crow nation. After selecting their campsite, four of the men walked back upstream to do some gold prospecting before dinner. Bill Fairweather and Henry Edgar remained behind to take their turn at "camp duty." Bill walked a short way downstream to look for a good spot to picket the party's horses for the night. Bill soon returned to camp and told Henry that he had noticed a site where a piece of bedrock was exposed along the creek bank. Fairweather asked Edgar to help him prospect the site and, as Edgar recalled, "Bill got the pick and shovel and I the pan and went over." Fairweather led the way to the site, shoveled some dirt into the pan Edgar was holding, and told him: "Now go' he says, 'and wash that pan and see if you can get enough to buy some tobacco when we get to town.'" What Bill had discovered would prove to be one of the richest gold deposits in North America, and would be the seminal event in the history of Montana.” (From the Anaconda Standard - Sept 5, 1899)From these simple, even accidental roots, sprang the then-bustling Virginia City and Nevada City. During their peak in 1864, Virginia City boasted a population over 10,000. When one walks the semi-deserted streets of this quiet town during the off season, it takes a lot to imagine it ever being the largest town in the inland Northwest. Yet it was!

A rare mid-summer break led to an unexpected outing to our ‘resident’ ghost towns: Virginia City and Nevada City. While I can’t imagine anyone calling Madison County’s seat a ‘ghost town’, with a current population of around 130 people, it is definitely closer to a has-been than a bustling, modern metropolis. Nevada City, on the other hand, is the quintessential ghost town - and a very nicely restored one at that.The towns are close neighbors with barely a break as you leave the one and enter the other. However, the difference is stark. Virginia City, especially during the summer months, retains the look and feel of a ‘live’ community. When the tourists go home, things definitely quiet down, but even then, freshly painted buildings, electric lights, and shiny vehicles set a contemporary context.However, as one browses the streets of town - even when they are teaming with other sight-seers - history comes alive around every corner. Perhaps the most striking difference between Virginia City and a town like Ennis (don’t get me wrong, I really like Ennis), is Ennis’ historic feel has been ‘created’. Virginia City just ‘is’ what it has always been - a city with deeply historic roots.

Take the courthouse. The Virginia City Courthouse which houses the Madison County seat was dedicated in 1876. In fact, it is the oldest working courthouse in the state. In spite of the ongoing need for improvements and repairs, this old building is loved by its people.

Certainly St. Paul’s Episcopal Church is a must-see. The large and numerous stained-glass windows (reputedly by Tiffany) and the beautiful pipe organ stand in sharp contrast to the rougher side of the old mining town. I found it even more interesting to learn the funds for construction came, primarily, from a Mrs. Henry Elling as a memorial to her late husband. I found it hard to imagine one person funding this grand structure. In a town replete with memories of a rougher side, it definitely stands as a monument to man’s higher nature.

President Grant named an Ohio resident, Benjamin F. Potts, Montana’s territorial governor in 1870. While the mountains must have seemed huge to an Ohioan, the house had to seem small to the large man. Yet, this simple, unassuming house, served as the “Governor’s Mansion” for the first of Potts’ twelve year term as governor.

Next door one finds the Lewis/McKay house (also called the McKay / McNulty house). While of a simpler design, at the time of its construction by J.M. Lewis, its modern construction (an incorporation of log and planed lumber) marked it as innovative. Originally there were two homes (when built in 1864). In the 1870's a central addition joined them to create one larger home.Miner Alex McKay, a Scottish imigrant settled his family into this home in the 1870s. They were some of the first families to settle in the Alder Gulch area. And, the adventurous genes did not stop with the parents. One of Alex’s daughters, Flora McNulty, became one of Montana Territory’s first woman doctors. She left her mark not only in her pioneering spirit but also in her philanthropic efforts to preserve the area’s history and send young people to college.

However, what might be considered the most prestigious home in this section of town housed the butcher, George Gohn! Constructed in 1892, this lovely dwelling incorporated stonework and interior finishes of oak and walnut.This might not be the home in which one would expect to find the local butcher, but Mr. Gohn did not just own the meat market. He was also a member of the vigilance committee - an important (and controversial - even then) part of the community.

The lust for gold often fed on greed. This less-than-noble ambition drove many who flocked to Virginia City and Nevada City at their inception. Yet, high hopes and lofty dreams rarely came to fruition in gold fields. The vast majority walked away - chasing the next dream or moving to a more welcoming climate. A few others, however, chose a different occupation:‘wealth redistribution.’ Often law and order came too slowly to these settlements. Certainly this was the case for overnight cities. A mass of humanity flock to an area. Hard work for little reward follows. As surely as night follows day a small segment will decide to make their fortunes regardless. Thus begins the pillaging and oppression we see repeated throughout history.Local residents respond, inevitably, seek some form of justice. Vigilante committees were one common solution. Virginia City’s vigilantes were said to have performed one of the most deadly episodes of ‘crime reduction’ in American history. Before they were finished, twenty-one troublemakers dangled from ropes.

Virginia City’s “Hangman’s Building” where five road agents lost their lives to vigilante justice, now exists simply to share this ‘piece’ of the town’s past. A step inside its doors is a step back in time. A diorama shows its violent roots while nearby a simple dusty roll-top desk represents the simpler life which followed.

The quiet streets have their own stories to tell. Graceful stone buildings peer out arched windows upon humble boardwalks. Even the slow restoration process has managed to keep the flavor of the old west alive. Strolling down that boardwalk, I couldn’t help but expect some rowdy miner to come stumbling out of the next open doorway - his work-stained hands and hardened muscles burdened with supplies for his camp somewhere along Alder Creek.

The restoration work which continues in both towns has paid some dividends. Certainly the summer tourist season, while short, is a welcome revenue source. But, the tourists are only a few of those interested in the history the area exudes. Hollywood has found the area useful in depicting the ‘real’ west. Thus the area has set the stage for scenes found in such well-known movies as “Return to Lonesome Dove” and “Missouri Breaks.”Life has not ‘ended’ for this Centennial Valley neighbor. In fact, it may just be beginning - again. Without doubt the growing number of summer homes dotting the hillsides suggest, for some at least, Virginia City is breathing the air of her second ‘life.’Lady Of The Lake

An ALMOST Forest Fire

2011-11-02T18:40:00.001-06:00

We had a wonderful winter at Elk Lake. In fact, all of southwest Montana and the surrounding countryside which includes the Centennial and Madison Valleys enjoyed more snow (translate that more water) than those downstream knew how to handle. However, a dry summer followed our wet winter.Since we were more than ready for summer, we had no complaints. Yet, as the delighful, dry days followed each other like soldiers marching in a parade, our thoughts could not help but turn to the heavy fuel loads on the surrounding hillsides. Then along came August with its lightening storms. Sometimes wet; usually dry.Thus that unwanted (and yes, feared, phone call) came as no surprise. "What are you guys cooking up there? Looks like you have quite a BBQ? Did you forget to invite me to the party?" A friend from the Madison Valley heralded the unwanted news. Some fishermen confirmed his report a few minutes later. While they'd seen no lightning and heard no thunder, there could be no doubt - up near Hidden Lake a fire burned.

We immediately called the Dillon fire dispatch - a number we had never had reason to use, not even once, in the previous seven summers. Now the waiting game began. Would they put it out or use it for 'resource management'? (By the way: I'd be curious to know how many of you manage your cash like we 'manage' our forests. I have never been tempted to manage my money by feeding it to the flames! How about you?) Would the wind blow from the south (like usual) or the north (as it does on occasion in August)? How far would it spread? How much damage would it do? And thus we spent a semi-restless night.

Mid-morning I received the call I had been half dreading. The Forest Service ranger had the decision: "Our fire team has reached a conclusion. While we would like to use this fire for resource management, we feel our resources are just too stretched to handle another fire." THANK GOD! I had the answer I had been praying for. Yet, when I expressed my relief, the ranger seemed surprised. "You were worried?" Well, yes! Based on their management policies, I have to admit knowing I had the USFS protecting my home and business was not very comforting. Besides, while the USFS considered the fire in 'broken country' (i.e. not a lot of fuel and thus easy to control), I knew the areas between Elk Lake Resort (or Wade Lake or Cliff Lake) and the fire supported substantial fuel loads.

So, although I had not seen the fire, the fire crew heading toward Hidden Lake a couple hours later brought a great sense of relief. The fact they returned the next day made me feel even better. The lone person who returned the next couple of days to confirm the fire was out - a precautionary measure I greatly appreciated. The one or two man crew who continued to check the fire daily for the next two or three weeks - even after a substantial rain storm - well, they were harder to figure out. Yet, the USFS put the fire out - so I remain forever grateful.

In the leading photo, you can see that the upper landing campground (above the parking lot and outhouse) offered a great fire vantage point. From there you can see why they considered the burn to be in 'broken' country. You also get an idea of the area burned. The second photo shows the burn as you approach it from the 'new' trail. The third reveals how close this fire (which only burned about 18 hours - with a large portion of that through a cool, mostly still night) came to topping out trees and really taking off. And the third, fourth, and fifth photos show the fire damage from various angles. As these reveal, the country, while broken, contained areas of heavy timber with substantial deadfall (i.e. - plenty of fuel to feed but never satiate a hungry fire).

The Fireline makes a clear demarkation between burned and un-burned (except where the fire - a mere beginner - managed to jump over it). While the burn damage is slight (thanks to the quick supression), the difference is significant. I couldn't help but think of Smokey the Bear's theme as I viewed the sight. Or, maybe more appropriately, the newer signage asking "Which do you want? This? or This?" (with pencil sketches of a green forest contrasted to a burnt landscape). I know my preference. Especially with several years of the current management system under our belts.

Yet my primary cause for concern is seen in this and the following picture. Standing at the top of the burn and looking toward Elk Lake, I viewed a green countryside which very likely would look significantly different right now had the USFS decision swung the other way.

On the other hand, our summer breezes are predominately southern. This means Elk Lake Resort sits in a mostly protected location since the nearly treeless and wet Centennial Valley is our southern neighbor. Cliff, Wade, and Hidden Lakes are not so fortunate. In fact, 'this' is the picture which would most likely have changed as the flames, driven by that southerly wind, flew north down the chain of lakes to the Madison Valley.

After our sobering reminder, we turned toward a little tarn of which my hunting hubby knew. Its lush greeness tucked amongst the heavy firs and pines stood in stark contrast to the fire-scorched landscape such a short distance away.

And, while I am no wildlife biologist, I have a feeling the animals which traveled this obviously well-used trail from the tarn to the lush grassy feed nearby, are also breathing a sigh of relief. After all, while my home 'might' have been threatened, their homes were in danger and they had NO voice!

Certainly this guy - the KING of a species very negatively impacted by the YNP fires - appeared to prefer the lush unburned meadows to the charred fields just a short moose-jaunt away.

As we headed back past Hidden Lake, I couldn't help but relish the view. Clear blue waters embraced by fir and pine draped hillsides topped by an emerald blue sky! Ahh - the beauty out my back door - something I see on a regular basis - now to be appreciated even more after its close scrape with death!Lady of the Lake

2011-10-25T12:55:00.000-06:00

A "Grey" Day Hike

While I'd like to say the sun ALWAYS shines at Elk Lake, it doesn't. Sometimes it snows. Sometimes it rains. And, although a rare event, sometimes it is just 'grey'.

However, when a hike is in the works - well, I'm not one to stay inside just because the weather isn't on its best behavior. Since my hiking companions were of the same mind, we decided to make our hike - regardless of grey skies, threatened rain, soggy trails (from rain the night before), and gusty winds.

We loaded up the packs, the dogs, the lunch, the maps, the bear spray, the camera, the binoculars, the extra warm clothes - well, more than we needed but at least we had all the bases covered. The plan was to hike to Blair Lake - a hike I'd taken last year under very different skies!

We planned to take a similar route. Up the Corral Creek Trail to the juntion with Blair Lake. On up to Blair Lake. On the way back we thought we might take a sidetrip to Hellroaring Creek before finishing the day at the Hellroaring Creek Trailhead (which would require about a 1/2 mile hike to our vehicle parked at the Corral Creek Trailhead).

Well, things didn't go as planned. The higher we went, the lower the clouds. Between cold gusty winds and intermittent rain showers, we were looking forward to reaching our destination, finding a sheltered nook in which to eat our lunches and give our feet a break. However, when we reached the Blair Lake Junction, the mountain did not look inviting. The wind howled up those slopes. The clouds looked anything but friendly. Sheltered nook? Probably not up there. After a brief pow-wow, we decided the wisest choice would be to take the lower trail to Lillian Lake.

In spite of the weather and changed plans, beauty filled our day. While aspens are sparse up that high, the huckleberries and other low-growing bushes brought bright splashes of color to our storm-dulled day. However, what surprised us most were the wildflowers. While nothing to compare to the color profusion we enjoyed on our Sheep Lake Hike, I honestly did not expect to find one, let alone EIGHT different varieties, still blooming at this elevation. In October. After snow! Amazing!

Yet we saw: Common Harebells, Yarrow, Sulphur Buckwheat, Spurred Lupine, Alpine Asters, Indian Paintbrush, Englemann Asters, and Orange Agoseris! Who would have guessed? And these were blooming! While the remaining huckleberries had dried to grey globs, we found edilble Gooseberries, Thimbleberries, Black Elderberries, and Oregon Grapes! Quite impressive for early October at that elevation.

The clouds remained low so the splendid views this area offers were mostly hidden. Nonetheless, even with low clouds and occasional rain showers to obscure things, whenever the weather cleared, even briefly, we were treated to brilliant color in every direction!

It has been several years since I made the trek to Lillian Lake. In fact, I think the last time I was here was on horseback - four or five years ago?? I can not even locate a prior blog post on that excursion.

Lillian Lake, named after Lillian Hackett Hanson Culver, an early Centennial Valley settler, is a small lake tucked into a mountain basin. Blair Lake is larger. Blair Lake offers more spectacular views. BUT, Blair Lake is also near the top of the Continental Divide - up in those clouds and exposed to the gusting wind. Thus Lillian Lake was a perfect destination on this grey day.

Yet, after visiting on a windy day, I found my curiousity pricked. I am going to have to go back to Lillian Lake and do some exploring. That little lake appears to be tucked into a sheltered valley. However, the wind howling, gale-force, over its surface suggested it is less sheltered than I thought. Hmmmm!

Due to the changes in our route, we ended up making a near perfect loop. Up Corral Creek to junction into the Continental Divide Trail. Past the junction up (where, if you were following the Continental Divide Trail you would have to turn) to Blair Lake. Down to Lillian Lake. Across the upper reaches of Hellroaring Creek (I wonder how close we were to the headwaters of the Missouri?). North along the east side of the creek. Back across the creek and a bit west. A brief detour. Then down to the Hellroaring Trailhead and back to our rig.

The photo above, looking south-west from the east side of Hellroaring, shows the country up from which flow those famous headwaters.

I swear trailbuilders get their kicks out of imagining a hiker's frustration at finding a creek crossing without a bridge, a log, or any other 'dry' means of crossing. After all, it happens EVERY time. And so, on a cold, grey, rainy day, we had the privilege of taking off our shoes and socks, rolling up our pants, and wadding / stumbling across a slick-rock creek filled with snow-melt water. Talk about Chinese torture!

And THIS just proves my point. What did we find spanning the next 'trickle' (literally, we could have stepped across it!) merely a couple hundred yards from our frozen feet crossing? Yes - a lovely wide, wood bridge - followed by another just as nice crossing a nearby swampy area (which we could have navigated with dry feet as well!). What about COLD, SLICK, WIDE, and KNEE DEEP did they not understand about the *real* creek crossing? Oh well! I whine - and I didn't enjoy it - not that day - but it did add another element to our adventure.

Our trip would have been about a mile shorter had we chosen not to take our detour. However, Hellroaring Canyon is not a place to bypass - at least not when we were this close and one of the 'gang' had never been there.

So, when we reached this confusing trail junction, we took the trail to the right (the arrow pointing left in the photo). WARNING: Should you decide to take this hike, let's talk first. The maps (even the better ones) do not show the trails. In addition, there are two 'branches of the Continental Divide Trail (thus all the markers on these trees) - and one is only marked at the south end. This is not to say the area is hard to navigate. It is not. But going in with a bit of knowledge sure helps!

Hellroaring Canyon is a magnificent place. The creek really does roar through the canyon (and so does the wind in the winter!). Yet nature's harsher elements are softened by the canyon's beauty. Brilliantly and uniquely colored rocks. Abrupt canyon walls. Abounding color from willows and berries and other water loving deciduous trees and plants. White water flashes while clear still pools attempt to calm the wild stream. It truly is a magical spot. So, we stopped for a picture (note the bridge!) and a look around before heading back to the junction.

Note: it is possible, if one has two cars, to follow this trail to the Red Rock Pass trailhead. This section (see the trail on the right side of the stream) of the Continental Divide Trail takes one along the north face of Nemesis and across Cole Creek (which, I believe, flows from the big bowl one can see on Mt. Jefferson when heading east out of the valley) and finally to Red Rock Pass.

Our excursion came to an end just as the clouds began to break - at least where we were. We walked down to the Hellroaring Trailhead then along the two-track for about 1/2 a mile to the Corral Creek Trailhead and our vehicle. And, while we did not end up going where we 'thought' we would, no one complained. It had been a magical Centennial Valley day - even if the weather did dampen us, literally, it didn't mar our spirits.

Lady of the Lake

2011-10-14T17:34:00.000-06:00

Lower Red Rock Lake

Some days are diamonds - at least that is what the song says. And, while I don't often agree with the popular song' lyrics, I must say, the afternoon we spent on Lower Red Rock Lake had all the elements of a 'diamond day'. Cerulean - on the deep end - skies. Golden fields. Majestic mountain backdrops. Clear water. A comfortable breeze. A few surprises. Ahhh - what a day!

Lower Red Rock Lake, like its eastern cousin Upper Red Rock Lake, dominate Montana's Centennial Valley. Set aside as a wildlife refuge in the early 1930's, this area is one of the few remaining completely undeveloped locations of any size in the lower 48. While the refuge protects about 65,000 acres, conservation easements limit further development on almost all the surrounding private landholdings.

Both lakes provide superb waterfowl habitat. Both are shallow (probably never more than 10 to 12 feet in depth). Both are inaccesible, except during a limited time frame by non-motorized watercraft, year-round. Thus both are home to wildlife who rarely see their two-legged co-inhabitants. Of course this makes the experience that much better for those of us who prefer the less-developed side of life.

Since the youngest member of our party is still learning to row - well, to row with the ability to get from point A to point B - most of the family climbed into the canoe while I prepared to embark in my trusty kayak. Our destination? Well, that was a little up in the air. However, we knew we wanted to explore the lake a bit, and perhaps travel up one of the source streams.

One challenge faced by Red Rock Lakes' explorers is the weather. Perhaps you've read my 2009 post about our explorations of Upper Red Rock Lake. If so, you might recall the LONG PULL back across the lake to our launching point. The wind, while no where near its typical blustery self, added an unwanted degree of challenge to our day. Thus, as I looked across the placid surface of Lower Red Rock Lake which perfectly reflected Sheep Mountain to the east, I couldn't help but hope it stayed this calm.

The views were magnificent. From the Centennial Range to our south, to Jefferson to our east, to the Madisons to our north - there wasn't a bad view to be seen!

Much of the water which passed under our crafts that day looked more like a jungle than a lake. They say there are fish in these lakes - big fish. I know there are waterfowl - including diving ducks. However, while there were places we could see the lake bottom a few feet below our boat's bellies, much of the lake looked too thick to penetrate.

Our journey started on Lower Red Rock Lake's western shore. Since Upper Red Rock Lake sat to the east, we figured we'd have to head in that direction to find the connecting waterway. As we approached the eastern shoreline, I realized we were being watched by a local resident.

Two local residents, it turned out. I know moose are big. They are taller than elk and their long legs make them appear even taller than they are. In addition to long legs, a full-grown moose also boasts an admirable upper body! And, while I've always known they were big animals, when one is sitting at their feet in a kayak, they appear gargantuan. Thankfully these big boys were merely curious!

We figured the willows from whence the moose appeared just might prefer flowing water. Thus we now began to search in earnest for an inlet stream.

We had heard the waterway between Upper and Lower Red Rock Lakes was difficult to find. Well, our experience certainly doesn't contradict that. In fact, we cannot comment at all because we did not find the waterway between the two. However, we did locate the inlet to Odell Creek - by pure luck. Like any other swamp, everything is wet. Tucks and folds abound along the shoreline - each suggesting perhaps here a stream flows in.

So, as we scouted the shoreline, not really knowing what to expect, we watched for something more. More than ?? We weren't sure, but surely an inflowing stream would create at least a small current. And, low and behold, we found it (and it didn't look like the photo above. That was taken after the creek turned into a creek.)

Like our trip up Red Rock Creek in 2009, the trip up Odell Creek offered limited vistas. We could see the mountains in the distance. Occasionally we caught glimpses of the immediate vicinity. However, much of the time we were down in a 'ditch' of sorts, surrounded by high grasses, paddling across clear waters which reflected the sky and revealed several large fish but offered no insight into the world above its banks.

However, I am never content to see 'nothing'. In fact, I really cannot understand the person who steps out of doors - to hike or bike or row or just sit - and sees nothing. How can you settle into Creation's embrace and not see? To prove the point, I captured a few images of what I could see.

Colorful butterflies on the blooming thistles (which were magnificent on their own but whose magnificence I could not capture adequately on film). A sad little injured duck whose fate I chose not to imagine.

Two little birds (okay, I admit, I'm being lazy - I am not taking the time to identify them) chattering on the shore.

Even spider webs - amazing spider webs. I've never seen such profuse spider webs. I'm not sure if it is because so little traffic passes through this area. Or, maybe it was my perspective - below them - which brought them to life. Whatever the cause, I spent several moments enraptured by spider webs! Who would believe it?

Yet, always, Sheep Mountain dominated the scene. In fact, it was easy to track our progress by its slowly approaching bulk.

After rowing for about an hour and a half (approximately 45 minutes across the lake and another 45 minutes up the creek), we were ready to stretch our legs. While the shoreline offered few spots which invited one to disembark (the creek banks were fairly abrupt in most places), we did manage to find a stopping point. Wow! What a beautiful spot to take a break.

Looking north-west we could now see the country through which we had floated. Grassy fields stretched to the distant horizon. What a beautiful sight - and not a person or habitation to be seen. Amazing!

That look to the west reminded us time was quickly passing. We had at least 1 1/2 hours of rowing to return to our starting point - that was if the wind didn't pick up. So, we decided it was time to return to our faithful floating fleet. However, the fence a hundred yards to the east provided a beautiful prop for just one more photo of Sheep Mountain.

And, that's where this trip took an unexpected turn! The lush grass growing in these fields provided the perfect hiding place for my camera lens - the one which fell out of my pocket as I walked over to take just one more picture! While we spent precious time searching, it was to no avail. My, how it twisted my gut to climb back into my kayak without my zoom lens! (Therefore, it is with MANY thanks I report my wonderful husband repeated our trip the next day with a borrowed metal detector - found the unharmed lens and brought it home. Thank you, Lord. Thank you, Honey!)

Back in the water, everyone pitched in to paddle west. The weather was perfect. The views extraordinary. The company enjoyable. At this point I was a bit blue - kicking myself for losing my lens - but even that couldn't dampen the day's beauty.

The trip back down Odell Creek went quickly, almost effortlessly, as the current was heading our way. However, we still had to find (this part of the trip was the most interesting because it was the most challenging) the narrow channel which ran from the lake to the wide stream - weird but true. Once found, we backtracked around all those twists and turns, an easy feat for the kayak. A bit more challenging for the canoe's passengers!

Back across the lake we rowed against an intermittent but mild breeze. Since the Lower Lake is interspersed with numerous 'reed islands', the final challenge lay in locating our launching point. Thus I was extremely pleased when I realized I'd chosen an almost direct route, one which required little adjustment to deposit me on the shore near our truck. Here I enjoyed the views, the quiet, and the peaceful setting while I waited for the rest of the family to complete their trip.

Ah, what a day. I'd recommend it to anyone - but pick a windless day if you can! It really does make the whole experienced that much more enjoyable. And so ends just another one of the 'perks' of being,

Lady of the Lake

2011-10-08T12:42:00.000-06:00

A Trip Through Paradise (Part 3)

If you have been following my adventure, you have experienced the trip to camp (in Part 1) and an amazing (yet sometimes scary) trip around Sphynx Mountain in Part 2. Today we will finish this fantastic journey.

After the previous day's experience, I really expected the rest of the trip to be a piece of cake. After all, we merely had to load our gear and ride out - well, sort-of. My host and guide was not the kind to shirk his duty. He'd promised a full trip. He would live up to that promise. Thus the trip out would take us through more uncharted territory (at least for me). This translated into about 10 miles to travel before reaching our starting and stopping point.

Of course, like any other day, first things had to be taken care of first! So while we brushed our teeth, washed our faces, and combed our hair, Chance (and the rest of the crew) took the opportunity to scratch their backs and take on a good coating of mud (which, to their disgust, we did not allow them to wear).

After breakfast - ours and our mounts - we began the process of reloading our gear. It's funny how things 'change'. On the way in we'd had more to carry (because we'd eaten a lot of the food), but it seemed like we just couldn't get things to fit back into the packs as nicely as they had on the way in. I guess that is just par for the course. So, we put our heads together and managed to make it work.

An hour or so later, we had everyone loaded (even Chance who hadn't forgotten his role as the 'spooky kid' of the crew) and ready to go. After another walk through camp to be sure we'd returned everything to its 'natural' state, we were ready to mount up for the ride home.

Today's route would backtrack about 2 1/2 miles of yesterday's trail before turning east. Back up along McAtee Creek past the junction with Cougar Creek we traveled in a northerly direction. Sphynx remained on our left but was hidden from view. About three miles into our ride we came to a pretty little meadow which offered unobstructed view of the McAtee Basin.

Soon the trail turned east and we began the climb up to Inspiration Ridge.

There are times in life when valor stems from complete ignorance. Today was such a day. While Gale had regaled us with stories of other people he'd taken along the route we were to travel this day, I assumed (and most likely correctly) he was sharing the most interesting stories. Thus to hear him speak of riders who had stopped speaking until long after they had descended the other end of the ridge we were ascending - well, I figured they were greenhorns. Since I was not unaccustomed to mountain trails - and since I had survived yesterday's experience without losing my tongue, today should be a piece-of-cake! Certainly the beginning of what I call "Inspiration Ridge" (the trail is known as the Inspiration Trail) looked harmless enough.

The first part was pretty tame. However, what looked like a mild, partially tree-covered ridge, soon showed its real face.

You've heard it said, "A picture is worth a thousand words." Well, when the picture loses its ability to communicate reality, you know you're experiencing something quite unique. I'm proud to report I did not lose my ability to speak. However, that is not to say I didn't start to chatter - I may have done so. I honestly can not remember. What I do remember was doing anything to keep my mind off of where my horse (remember BORROWED HORSE) was putting his feet!

As our trail turned southeast along Inspiration Ridge, I picked up this view to the north. That chaulk-colored hillside circles around the headwaters of Buck Creek.

If any of the following photos look blurry, they probably are. Taking photos in low light (it remained overcast the remainder of our ride) off the back of a moving horse (only a CRAZY person would have attempted to stop their horse along many sections of this trail because a stopped horse does not necessarily mean a non-moving horse) does not tend to produce crisp, clear photos. And, there is always the possibility (a likely one) my hand was shaking too!

To my right (south-west - mostly west) Sphynx once again dominated the skyline.

In all the interesting stories my guide had shared with me on our way to the ridge, there were two pieces of information he excluded (or my brain just blanked out). One - the length of time we would spend on this hog-back. Two - the narrow aspects of this particular 'trail'. Thus as things became more interesting, I ignorantly comforted myself with the thought, "This can't last much longer." WRONG!

To keep my mind off my horse's feet which were passing within inches of thin air on my left, I tried to enjoy the view. This is the Buck Creek drainage - a drainage we paralleled throughout this segment of our journey.

To the south-west we had a view down toward our campsight of the previous two evenings. While I cannot name with confidence the drainages upon which I gazed, according to the map this must have been the upper regions of McAtee Creek or perhaps the Gorge Creek drainage.

Have you noticed my horse's ears, clearly seen in most of the 'trail' photos? Always looking alertly ahead. This gave me a measure of confidence as the trail, instead of improving as I'd naively hoped, continued to get a little scarier and a little hairier!

To my right - more and more over my right shoulder - Sphynx continued to watch over our progress. Looking back upon its cloud-shrouded form, I couldn't help but remember yesterday's trail. While I still remembered vividly those narrow, rolling rock avalanche shoots my horse had calmly traversed, I now realized that trip was merely a warm-up for the real fun. After half-an-hour, I was really hoping the end of this narrow hog's back was just up ahead.

It wasn't! In retrospect I am thankful I did not know we would traverse this knife ridge about an hour. At one point, since I doubted I would ever hike this section of trail (and I'm not sure I have the nerve to ride it again, now that I know what I'd be riding into), I snapped several quick pictures looking straight down. I didn't dare look for fear the vertigo would pull me into the abysss. However, this one, while a poor medium to convey the feeling of the earth dropping away beneath your feet, at least shows where I might have been had my horse mis-stepped more than a milimeter.

And still the trail continued. On and on we traveled down the narrowest ridge I had ever traveled - on horseback or foot. To the right the slope slid down and away at a dizzying speed. To the left there wasn't anything left to slide away. It was gone! One step too far in that direction and my horse and I would have fallen straight down at least 1000 feet!

However, there are times when it is just not wise to think about what 'could' happen. After all, if I let my imagination go, I know, even many months after the experience, I could NOT have stayed on my horse's back. So, to keep my imagination in check, I tried to enjoy the view. Still looking south-east (mostly south), I continued to behold beautiful views into the Buck Creek drainage.

When I mustered the nerve to twist around in my saddle to the right, Sphynx continued to dominate the skyline to the northwest.

If you're starting to wonder if I'll ever get off this hog's back, you're beginning to feel like I felt. After all, one can only enjoy so much excitement - and I had just about had my fill for the day! Yet it went on and on and on and . . .(you get the picture - and, believe it or not, I didn't take many pictures along this stretch of trail).

One last view of Sphynx for the trip - now a more distant highpoint on the horizon - and our trail turned from south-east to south to a little south-west.

Around the bend, and without any warning, I found what I had been looking for during the last hour - a wide spot in the trail! While we were technically still on the ridge, it was no longer a knife ridge sticking its blade into the sky. Things had mellowed (and leveled) out and I was more than ready to stretch a few fear-cramped muscles. Apparently I was not the only one for, a few minutes down the trail, our guide called for a lunch break.

I don't know if stock get nervous traversing narrow trails. Perhaps they do but hide it well. Perhaps they do not because their imaginations are less active than those of their riders. Or, perhaps it was just that my borrowed horse had traveled this trail before - more than once. Perhaps a 1000 foot drop inches from his feet no longer caused his muscles to bunch.

Regardles of the reason, as we remounted after our lunch break, I was singing my mount's praises. He'd taken me safely through the hairest 'adventure' I'd ever experienced on horseback. As our trail took the short drop down to Lizard Lakes, I realized even with such a steady mount, this story could have ended a LOT different IF, somewhere along that knife ridge, we had met up with the Grizzly whose tracks we had followed just a day earlier.

What does a horse do when it meets a bear in the trail? Even as I relaxed knowing I would probably never know, we passed alongside the smallest Lizard Lake (two little lakes - the one along whose shore we passed was little more than a tarn) and headed down the meadow to the south. About the time I heard the claws on bark, the mule I was leading suddenly rushed past Chief - and that with Chief doing his best to bolt forward. As I grabbed for my horse's reins and the mule's lead, I was looking for the bear. (The brain is an amazing thing. Although, to this point I had never met a bear in the woods, I knew what I had heard and what my animals had heard and smelled.)

Sure enough, to my left, a sow was anxiously pacing back and forth. Now, keep in mind, this is all happening at mach speed. Yet, even as my mind whirled and my hands and body sought to control and calm my mounts, I was grabbing for my camera. I HAD to get a photograph of this bear.

If this picture looks at all clear, it is completely due to a good photoshop program. Nothing (including my hands) was in a state of non-motion. Yet, I did manage to catch about three shots of this agitated mother bear - but her genus I will not attempt to designate with certainty. It all happened TOO FAST and my photos are just not clear enough. But, a bear is a bear is a bear - and I could not help but thank God we did not make her acquaintance up there on that hog's back!

The rest of the trip (outside of a well-behaved, completely trustworthy horse who had carried me safely over the worst trail I'd ever traversed suddenly became VERY antsy as we approached the trailhead) was mild in comparison to everything else we had experienced. While the map is a bit deceptive, we took the right fork (heading a bit south-west when the main trail turned east) and cut across an alternately open and timbered hillside to junction with the trail we had traversed two days earlier.

About three-quarters of a mile further we reached our destination - seen here from the top of the ridge before we began our decent. I imagine everyone (people and animals included) was happy to call it a day. We were all ready for a more 'civilized' and 'safe' environment. However, I will never forget the memories made, the experiences shared, or the companionship enjoyed on this trip. I have seen paradise - and at times I felt like I'd surely been to hell and back - and yet I survived it all (and enjoyed most of it).

Would I do it again? Probably. I do not think one should let such unique opportunities pass them by. And yet, I might ask to be blindfolded for portions of the trip (but most likely not!).

Lady of the Lake

If this story has stirred your sense of adventure, the maps below chronicle our trip.

Day One we traversed the trails marked in orange - from the 'Trailhead' to 'Camp'.

Day Two we traveled the green loop. We started at 'Camp', took our longest break at 'Lunch Break', and returned, by day's end to 'Camp'.

Day three we covered the trails marked in pink. We started at 'Camp', headed north-east, then turned east, south east and finally south to end up at the 'Trailhead'. (Note: The map for day three incorporates the south half and the north half of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness map. Unfortunately the maps are not presented in the same scale. Thus, where the maps join, they do not match perfectly.)

2011-09-28T14:28:00.000-06:00

A Trip Through Paradise (Part 2)

In Part 1 of this three-part series, we reached our camp on Circle Creek, set up our home-away-from-home for the next two nights, and settled in for some fun. I closed by introducing you to the key players. Now it's time to get on with the adventure.

The landscape keynote on this particular trip was Sphynx Mountain. Sphynx is, without doubt, the most noteable mountain in the Madison Range. While the entire range is made up of beautiful mountain peaks of various shapes and sizes, Sphynx must take the prize for most unique.

The Sawtooths (one mini-section of the extensive Madison Range) exude what makes a mountain majestic in my mind: jagged, rocky peaks. But Sphynx has captured my imagination from the first. Thus the opportunity to see this mountain from every angle, to examine it up close and personal, and to allow it to dominate my three-day trip - well, I couldn't have chosen an area I'd rather explore.

The day began bright and early. The night before had been warmer than I expected (I'd guess low to mid 40's). Thus it was easy to crawl out of my warm bed into an adventure filled day. After we filled our bellies, we saddled up. There was some discussion about the pack stock - leave them on the highline or take them along?? In the end, we decided caution was the better part of valor for, as you may recall, Molly was a great mule AS LONG AS she knew (or at least believed) she was not free. Once free - well, we knew we'd be taking a trip back to the trailer to find her should she escape the highline. So, Molly wore the soft-sided paniers with our lunch. Chance went unencumbered.

We picked up our trail where we'd left it yesterday to camp on Circle Creek. Today's route took us west (through the draw shown above), between Sphynx Mountain to our north and Circle Mountain to our south (shown to the right in this photo). The day's excitement started early. In addition to the bear tracks we'd followed to camp yesterday, early on we picked up some HUGE FRESH Grizzly tracks. Being in the lead, I kept my eyes on the trail, one leg on each side of the horse, and, as one elderly friend and horse trainer always said, "my mind in the middle." I must admit, I expected to meet that bear around every corner.

After about two miles we came to our first junction. In an adsolutely beautiful meadow nearby sat an outfitter's camp. A few tents scattered around. A few horses on the highline. And, no bear tracks in the trail. It looked like that particular bear was as shy of meeting people as this person was of meeting him. Boy was I glad!

A bit further up the trail we took our first break. Our hillside 'rest area' offered beautiful views back down the valley we'd just traversed and up toward Sphynx - the star of this particular show.

I was a bit surprised to find this sign tacked to the tree to which we secured our mounts (and pack animals). I did not expect to find an old stock driveway this far up the mountainside.

I never did learn the name of the mountain whose flank rose to our southwest as we descended to the next trail junction. However, it served as a distinct landmark displaying our progress.

After a brief rest for our trusty mounts and a few muscles stretches
for their riders, we were back in the saddle again. Since the whole trip
revolved around Sphynx, I was looking forward to more views of the mountain.

A bit further down the trail we crossed Bear Creek and junctioned into
the Bear Creek Loop trail. As our trail turned north-east up a lovely
draw, we gained our first glimpses of the day's high point (and I'm not
talking about Syphnx) - and it would definitely live up to that name!

After meandering through the lovely little draw our trail began to switchback up the pine covered hillside. Little did I know the day's excitement was just beginning. The first 'hint' came when the trail suddenly popped into the open and the ground seemed to disappear below my horse's nose as he made a sharp left turn. Once I put my heart back into my chest, I looked up to find Sphynx rising majestically to my right.

The scenery wasn't the only thing enhancing the day's adventure. Yesterday we'd ridden under a jewel-toned sky. Today's wind carried the sounds of change. Behind us a thunderstorm brewed while cold-grey clouds threatened liquid entertainment. And here were we - three fools headed for the highest point in the surrounding countryside!

While this section of the trail clung to the side of a steep tree-clad mountainside, ahead we could see Helmet standing sentry over a nice wide draw which offered a nearly level place to grab some lunch and give our mounts a break before the final climb.

I doubt anyone has ever enjoyed a prettier view out their cafe window. I'm not sure a prettier one exists. Certainly our animals were impressed - NOT! Heads down they filled their bellies while, heads up enjoying the view, we filled ours.

A striking mountain backdrop. A beautiful paint horse. A lush landscape. Like I said, this was a trip through paradise! (Our trail will be passing to the right of Helmet taking us over the saddle between it and Sphynx).

But back over our shoulders, storm clouds were closing in. If we were to finish this loop, it was time to get up and over that pass before they sent us on a hasty retreat.

Soon we were switch-backing our way up the last terrace to the saddle. While still a significant slope, thankfully this portion of the trail wasn't too steep - since we were approaching timberline with few trees to reduce the feeling of gliding through space. However, the lack of trees also meant in many places we were the tallest things on the slope. And, when you hear thunder, there is always lightening. Playing the role of 'sitting duck' on the back of my paint pony (even if it sounds like the start of a good western :-) just didn't appeal much!

The thunder rumbled - now nearly overhead. In the lead I approached the saddle. At lunch, Gail told me the last time they made this trip they walked their horses down the other side. However, he hoped, they may have worked on the trail a bit.

Well, from the top of the saddle, everything is DOWN - in nearly every direction. Unfortunately, only a short section of trail is visible from the top. So. . .as we reached the top Gail calls out to me (remember, I'm the leader - more like the blind leading the blind at this point) - "You decide whether we walk or ride."

"ME! I don't know the trail. You tell me."

"Nope, you're the leader. That's your job."

Well, that's what you get for taking a job without a written job description! In the end, Chief made the decision. He said, "I'm not playing lightening rod for one more second. Either you head me down off this fool's point or I'm making my own trail out of here."

So we plunged off the back side of Helmet - down a trail so scary I had to go back on foot (a few weeks later - that story might make it to the blog in the near future) to get the previous and next pictures - taken at leisure, at least in part due to the sunny skies.

To say it wasn't much of a trail is an understatement - at least for the first half-mile or so. The trail clung precariously to the north-east face of Helmet. The avalanche runs were little more than a collection of baseball- to football-sized round rocks looking for a reason to roll. The trail's best spots were not wide enough to see from my horse's back. Needless to say, I kept a leg on each side and my mind in the middle!

It was on our way down the 15 to 18 (I lost count somewhere down the line) switchbacks which dropped us into the next drainage that I discovered Red's one less-than-desirable trait. While I rode 'engine' on Chief, Burt rode 'Caboose' on Red. One of Chief's best traits is his willingness to walk right out - even down a ridiculously steep and narrow trail (and, to his credit, he never even stumbled - thank God, I think I'd have died of heart failure on the spot if he had!). Red, however, was ridden, as you will recall, by an admitted greenhorn. And, being old and wise, he already knew to take advantage of every advantage life throws your way.

So, while Chief strode on down that mountain, Red creeped. Naturally this increased the distance between the front and the back of our train. By the time we'd completed two or three switchbacks, Chief, Molly and I as well as Silky, Chance and Gail were already a level or two below Red. At this point, Gale called for a slow down for, he warned, were we to get much further ahead, Red would start taking short cuts - straight down the mountain!

Chief was not at all pleased with this turn of events. He had no desire to slow the pace! In fact, he wasn't opposed to picking it up a bit. So, this left us with only one option. Stop! I quickly learned to stop on the 'curve' of the switchback. Dancing feet weren't as scary with at least a nominal wide spot. And, as long as I was stopped, Silky was content to stop as well. And - - Red continued to plod down the hill, taking his own sweet time. Thus I enjoyed even more of the steepest section of this adventure than I'd hoped.

At the bottom of the mountain's face, we headed east toward Cougar Creek passing below Sphynx's brow to our south. Another four or five miles brought us to the final turn toward home. Heading south to south-west through the trees and down the meadows, this seemed easy. Little did I know there was one more adventure in store.

One more tight narrow spot - not as steep nor as high as the last 'adventure' - but this one held pretty little McAtee Creek and a slick-rock crossing followed by a BIG down tree on a steep hillside with almost no where to go. Thankfully there was just enough room - and on the uphill side - for the stock to squeeze by.

No, no pictures. The day had continued to darken as the thunderclouds rolled overhead. In fact, by the time we hit camp (about seven hours after we'd taken off that morning) it was hailing and raining and thundering. Thankfully we received a reprieve long enough to get the stock cared for and our own bellies full. By then, however, we were all content to head for drier and warmer quarters.

Lady of the Lake

2011-09-21T16:47:00.000-06:00

A Trip Through Paradise (Part 1)

Yellowstone Country is like a magical bag of delights. The more you pull out, the more it runs over with treats to be enjoyed. So, when I call this a "Trip Through Paradise", that is no exaggeration. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is loaded with mini Shangri-Las, sometimes it seems a new one is tucked in every hidden canyon and over every tree-studded hillside.
However, this is no soft-palmed, easy-chair country. More often it abounds in aspects of the white-knuckled, strapped-to-a-rocket type of adventure. Certainly this was true of the horse packing trip I took this time last year. While many aspects were heaven-on-earth, every once in awhile I wondered if I'd morphed into some wild version of hell!

The trip began beautifully. Soon we were heading down the road - perhaps 'up' would be more appropriate as our route took us deeper and further into the mountains. From Hwy 191 north we turned west to follow Taylor Creek toward its source. The views of the Taylor Hilgards in the distance added a dramatic backdrop to our drive. Fresh snow sprinkled like powdered sugar on their peaks reminded us cooler weather had already descended in the high country.

The truck bed was full of packs and tack. A stock trailer loaded to its gills followed behind. The horses and mules knew the routine. They had taken this route before. I am certain, the sights and sounds we traversed that morning were familiar to them. However, to my unenlightened eyes, breath-taking new vistas seemed to magically appear before my eyes.

My host was well versed in this country having traveled much of it on horseback and snowmobile. Thus, without doubt, I have forgotten more imparted knowledge than I have retained. Nonetheless I relished the beauty and the dialogue as we traveled past such beautiful valleys as this one which, if traveled, would eventually drop me back down on the shores of Hebgen Lake. After about 30 minutes following Taylor Creek, we turned onto a spur road and climbed a steep and bumpy road toward the Cache Creek Trailhead.

Traveling Montana's mountain back roads with a trailer is often a time-consuming experience. While I learned the road to our destination had seen much improvement, it still took nearly an hour to cover the several miles of gravel from the highway to our trailhead. Once there, however, the real work began - for us and our stock. Unloading finished; loading commenced. Chance, the yellow mule in the foreground (the photogenic clown of the group) was the young pup. True to age, he acted the part. Thus it took awhile to get him loaded! Once his pack was securely fastened, we tackled the rest of the crew. Soon everything was strapped on.

After a quick lunch which gave our stock time to settle into their gear, we hit the trail. We were headed for Circle Creek via Indian Crossing. Thus our journey began with a long, steady climb from our trailhead to a beautiful plateau. A steady climb is a blessing when one is dealing with fresh stock who have spent far too few days under saddle recently. Thus, as we switchbacked our way up the side of the mountain, our stock (and their riders) worked out some of their kinks.

As we neared the top (of the ridge which divides the Madison and Gallatin drainages), we had a great view of the valley we had traversed to reach our launching point. With sunshine on our shoulders, a warm breeze in our faces, and beautiful vistas in every direction, our trip could not have begun on a better note.

Once at the top, I became the groups unofficial leader (a position I would retain throughout the trip's remainder). Our trail now worked its way down a mild draw which dumped us into the headwaters of Indian Creek. Here, along the creek's beautiful upper regions, we picked up the day-old (ish) tracks of a large grizzly. We followed these 'local resident' reminders all the way to Circle Creek and our new home-away-from-home for the next two nights.
As we set up camp, my generous host regaled me with stories of the big Grizzly who charged their camp repeatedly the prior hunting season. I set up my tent a discreet distance from the 'guy's quarters' pondering whether I was, perhaps, closer to the potential Grizzly path into camp or further. I decided it mattered little if the Griz was intent on a few human sandwiches!

Night comes quickly to the high mountains. By the time we reached our campsight, we had consumed much of the afternoon. Thus once our tents were erected, we went right to work setting up the rest of the camp. The official 'campfire builder' worked his magic. I helped our host care for the stock (which we allowed to graze until they started looking back down the trail - at which time we secured them to the highline for the evening).
After supper we strolled up Circle Creek a few hundred yards to the next little meadow and enjoyed a few more wild stories by the campfire to fuel my dreams. I even had time to journal my day's experience before I crawled into my cozy bed - bear spray by my side and ear plugs in my ears (I certainly did not want to jump at every sound all night long!). I must admit, I slept like a baby.

Before I continue, I need to introduce you to the key players in this 'over-the-top' adventure. This is Gale, my host, our guide and the owner of the stock which took this journey from an idea to a reality. Gale has spent many many hours in this country - hunting and recreating. Thus he not only knows the area, he has a plethora of stories to share (some, perhaps, I could have done without hearing)!

Burt, the second member of our party, is an admitted greenhorn who hails from New York but spends several months each winter in West Yellowstone. More at home on a snowmobile (when it comes to backcountry winter excursions I don't know anyone I'd rather have in the lead) than a horse's back, Burt was a good sport who never complained - regardless of the long days and narrow trails. Since horse's weren't his 'thing', he took the role of official fire-starter / tender - a job at which he excelled.

I have already introduced Chance, the resident 'teenager'. Two more mules and two horses rounded out our transportation. Silky can be packed or ridden. According to Gale, she offers a smoother ride than any horse he's ridden. I can't speak from experience, but I can say she still acts like a mule. If Silky doesn't want to go there - you ain't going! Nonetheless, I never saw her take a false step, nor did she act ruffled (well, except for one time which, compared to everything else, really didn't matter) regardless of what came our way.

Chief was 'horse extra-ordinare'! Granted, he had to learn I was the boss - but once we'd worked out that little detail, he carried me over many miles and through a few hair-raising experiences. He made a fine lead horse willing to move ahead into the unknown - even when I wondered whether the better course of action might have been to forego this section of trail.

Then there was Molly, the third mule in our string. From our introduction in her home field, through the balance of our time together, I came to respect Molly as a dependable, sturdy, fuss-free creature who would work without complaint ONCE SHE WAS CAUGHT! Knowing this particular foible in her otherwise perfect character, I kept a tight hold on her lead whenever she was in my care (which turned out to be most of the trip).

Red rounded out the crew. The 'old man' of the group, Red was steady and patient with only one quirk - one which I learned about at a fairly inopportune time (see the next post). However, he caused no rucus, created no problem, and took his rider, Burt, safely from beginning to end. One just couldn't help but like ole' Red.
The adventure has just begun. Now that I've introduced you to everyone and interspersed a few hints of things to come, I hope you'll come back to read the rest of this wonderful adventure - truly a major highlight in my life here at Elk Lake Resort!
Lady of the Lake

2011-09-09T11:44:00.000-06:00

A Visit To Sheep Lake (Part 2)

After posting Part One, I realized I did not share the location of my new favorite lake. Sheep Lake is nestled beneath Coffin Mountain's overhanging brow. While it is shown on the Lee Metcalf Wilderness map - an area which encompasses much to the west of Yellowstone National Park; is located only about 20 miles from Elk Lake (as the crow flies - but only the crow travels straight in this mountainous country); and is in Montana (never a given around here), I am not certain to which mountains it belongs. Is it in the Lionshead mountains? The Henry's Lake Mountains? The beginning of the Madison Range? All three intersect near Raynolds Pass where one finds Sheep Lake's trailhead.

The golden sun beamed from a robin's egg sky. Our trail wandered from meadow to meadow then along a rock-strewn hillside as we worked our way ever forward, ever upward.

Last year (another one of those hikes I see I failed to write about - definitely a must-do for the near future) Lesli (a summer helper and a great hiking companion), the kids, and I made another trek - to the other side of the mountain (literally). If we had the time - and the energy of the 9-year-old - we could have traveled across a 'divide' and dropped into the Sheep Lake Trail. In fact, for a one or two day overnight backpacking excursion, it would be fun to park a vehicle at each trailhead and explore the country between the two lakes.
The map showed the junction. We looked for it, but not seriously as we were not planning to head that direction. I'm just glad we did not have to find this junction to reach our intended destination because, it is WELL HIDDEN! In fact, when the USFS horseback team finally reached Sheep Lake, I asked them about the trail junction. They responded: We discussed how difficult the sign is to spot on our way up today. And, it was difficult. While we might have spotted it if we had not been watching our step on the rocky trail, I'm not certain. The trail jutted off at a sharp angle to our left, nearly parallel the trail we were hiking and in a seemingly unlikely location. The trail sign (which we nearly missed although we were looking carefully on our way back) had fallen over and was nearly overgrown by the surrounding short but heavy foliage. All-in-all, unless they fix the sign (and the crew we met were doing trail work but had left this sign lay so. . .), if you plan to make the loop, be aware the junction is difficult to spot, especially if you are heading up the hill.

As we gained elevation, the view back down the valley we had traversed began to open up. The Madisons rose majestically in the distance while the rocky hillsides in the foreground rallied 'round their snow-capped cousins.

It seems the trail's designers wanted to make sure any visitors were seriously motivated. While the majority of the trail is nicely graded with a steady but not steep climb, the last section was quite steep. At this point, the most challenging part was not knowing how long we would have to climb - and how many more climbs were awaiting us after we tackled this one.

The dusty, rocky climb dumped us at the foot of a charming little 'park'. A slow moving stream meandered through its center. Beautiful fish drifted lazily just under the water's surface. The surrounding mountains embraced this emerald valley while Coffin Mountain sat like a king enthrowned at its head.

The castle rocks looming over our shoulders further enhanced the 'royal'
impression. With ease we could imagine ourselves tucked away in a fairy
kingdom with castle walls and giant mountains. Further down the valley
we had even spotted what looked like a giant rock chair perched high on
the mountain side.

Maybe it is a good thing we were nearing our destination. Maybe all that fresh air and healthy exertion had gone to our heads. Maybe in another mile or so, we would have convinced ourselves our mountain kingdom was more real than the world we'd left below. Perhaps we were spared further delusion. Regardless, we were very happy to see what appeared to be a small rock dam just ahead. And, it was a dam of sorts, although I've never seen a high mountain lake with a man-made dam at its foot.

No doubt about it. Sheep Lake is a watery jewel tucked high in a rugged
landscape. Coffin Mountain looms ahead - the ever protective uncle. Rocky
arms encircle the lake with a posessive air. Beautiful fish work the shoreline
flashing their colors up through the clear waters.

Only at the foot, back toward the creek outlet and the little rock dam, do the mountains relax their guardianship enough to allow the lake to trickle through their fingers into the valleys below.

The time had come to rest our feet and fill our tanks. With relief we settled down on the warm rocks to enjoy a lunch of fresh baked sourdough bread, grilled chicken, fresh veggie strips, Cliff Bars, nuts, and cool water. Ahhh - lunch in paradise!

It was amazing the way the elements came together on this hike to provide an almost unearthly feeling. The castle-wall mountains. The lush, rich setting. The giant 'throne'. The brilliant and abundant wildflowers. A 'cultured' setting the rival to even the finest 'designer' garden. Even the rocks glowed and glistened as if they were drenched in precious metals.

About half-an-hour after we'd reached the lake, in rode the USFS trail crew. As we'd hiked the trail ahead of them, we knew they had only had to deal with one log in the trail. I suspect they stopped to discuss things like swampy areas and nearly invisible trail signs, but their amazement nearly matched our own. They did NOT expect us to beat them to the lake. We didn't expect to beat them, either - especially by such a margin. Nonetheless, as we pulled our packs back onto our trail-weary bodies, it was a bit energizing to realize we were facing the down-hill part and to know we'd already proven ourselves more than competent hikers.

Down. Down. Down. We worked our way back through the meadows, across the rock-strewn hillsides, down the several switchbacks, back through the open timber, and found ourselves once again deep in the tall, thick brush. Moments later we popped out in the lower section - the upper Madison valley at our feet.

The end! We made it! All the way up and back with no injuries and TONS of memories.

The hike up took us about 3 hours with just a few brief water stops. The trail back took about the same time, but we spent about 30 minutes picking a few of Montana's special treasure - huckleberries! Yumm - Huckleberry Pancakes, here we come!
Lady of the Lake

2011-09-03T17:27:00.000-06:00

A Visit To Sheep Lake (Part 1)

For several years I have wanted to hike into Sheep Lake - ever since some horseback riders from Virginia hauled their horses all the way to Montana just to ride in our mountains. After they shared photos from their trip into this country, I was hooked.

For the last two years it has been on my to-do list. This year I finally had the chance to do it - so, with my faithful hiking buddies, I headed for the trail. As we were loading up our packs and preparing to head off, a USFS crew began unloading their horses. We thought we might see them again (actually we thought they would pass us on the way up - thus I will brag on my crew because THEY DIDN'T). Great hiking guys!

I have learned any time you head up "----" Creek Trail (whatever creek it may be), you can be sure you will cross water - probably several times. After my experiences last year (for example hiking the Odell Creek Trail), I have come to expect anything from slippery logs to stob-studded booby traps to good bridges. Thus trail, however, turned out better than most, with good bridges. . .

Most of the time! Why the USFS had bridges over every stream crossing but the second one - I do not know. On our way back the logs were dry and the crossing easy. On our way out that morning (when we definitely did NOT want wet feet) the logs were wet and slick. Thankfully no one fell in.

We had enjoyed a leasurely morning yet we were blessed with a comfortable hike - cool enough yet warm enough. The bugs weren't too bad and the day was absolutely gorgeous. Put all that together with some great hiking companions and a drop-dead-gorgeous setting and. . .we were hiking in paradise!

The lower section of the trail turned my mind to bears! The lush creekside provided the perfect environment for a jungle which often grew higher than our heads (yes - there are people in this picture - look closely at the middle of the photo). Thimbleberries. Gooseberries. Huckleberries. Raspberries. Currants. And more provided what looked to me to be the 'perfect' bear haven. Thus we kept the bear spray ready and corraled the youngest (and most energetic) member of the party in the middle of the pack (much to his chagrin).

Sheep Creek is a beautiful creek which offers many photo opportunities in spite of the heavy undergrowth. In fact, while our path often took us far from its banks, its delightful rumble and rush were rarely out of earshot.

After about a half-an-hour, our trail began to climb away from the lush creek bottom. It wound its way through an open forest. Oddly enough, even though the trail did return, at times, to the creek's bank, the heavy undergrowth did not return. (Note the youngest hiker. This is the one the horseback riders thought would slow us down - probably because he has the shortest legs. Yet, if you look closely, you will see he is not only keeping up, he even has the energy to stop regularly and pitch a few rocks - which means, of course, he has to run faster and farther to catch back up. Why, oh why, does he get all the extra energy?)

All that running and throwing did make him thirsty, however. This shady spot seemed the perfect spot to grab a drink, rest our legs (or not), and take a breather (always expecting to see the horseback riders coming around the bend). Soon, however, we were back on the trail.

About forty-five minutes into our hike the forest began to give way to rocks. Rocky Screes. Rock Slides. Big Beautiful Brazen Rocks. Rocks which tempted us to take a closer look - but not enough to get us off the trail.

However, the youngest hiker (with the shortest legs - who'd been doing the most running already) had to do a little climbing - PLEASE MOM! So, a couple minutes were allotted to climbing one big rock and then a quick photo shoot then hit the trail kid!

About fifteen minutes later we crossed the creek once again and began switch-backing our way up the mountainside. I will say this trail is nicely laid out. It is wide and level and even offers decent grading on most of the climbs.

The switchbacks landed us in a lovely meadow. For the most part, the rest of our trail traversed through a series of high mountain meadows, always gaining elevation as it proceeded to our destination.

One last time we crossed Sheep Creek. From this point onward we would pretty much follow the creek (at a distance) to its source.

Did I mention this hike was GORGEOUS! All of the hike was pretty, but once we popped out into the open meadows, the scenery became stellar. Rocky mountains buttressed 'round our meadows, bulking large on each side of our trail.

Up, Up, Up we wound - following the winding trail past stands of timber and across grassy fields. Rough rocky crags drew our eyes upwards. Puffy white clouds adorned an azure sky.

And wildflowers lined our pathway by the thousands. Boulder-strewn hillsides showed a rougher side, but the posies softened the picture. A LOT! In fact, there were many spots (like the one shown above) where I couldn't help but think of glossy magazine photographs depicting cultured yards upon which thousands of dollars had been spent trying to achieve something this gorgeous! Yet, in the Creator's garden, the harsh and the gentle are mated to create beauty beyond words (and beyond imitation).

Even surrounded by such beauty we were starting to wonder if Sheep Lake really existed. Our trail continued to meander through the meadows. The creek continued to gurgle and giggle by our side. Around each corner another breathtaking vista appeared. But where was the lake? Little did I know at the foot of that mountain in the distance (the one with the snow) lay that sparkling gem. Join me next time as we reach our destination.

Lady of the Lake

2011-08-26T13:38:00.000-06:00

A Hike To Goose Lake

This time of year my excursions are usually limited to 'close to home' (although, in a future post I will be sharing the story and photos from a recent hike to Sheep Lake). Of course there are few areas within a reasonable (2 to 3 hour) hiking distance which I have not explored - at least once. However, some places are worth a second (and third and fourth and so on) visit. Goose Lake is one such place.
Regular readers might remember Goose Lake as the location I found the infamous "Jackalope" skull featured in last year's Humble Pie post. Others might remember a post from further back featuring an earlier-in-the-season hike to Goose Lake. Obviously, Goose Lake is not a new location. Nonetheless, it is a pleasurable one.

What is Goose Lake's draw? I think, more than anything, it is the serenity. Not that this is an 'elusive' element around Elk Lake. It is, in fact, easily found. However, for those of us who not only live, but also work here, the opportunity to slip away to a lake with fish and birds and other wildlife (and no work close-by) is still a treat.

This particular hike started a bit late since we had morning chores to complete before heading out the door. However, the previous evening had featured a nice shower which left the mid-morning air fresh and brisk. As we headed down the trail to our boathouse (to do a bit of cleanup before hitting the 'real' trail), the sunlight danced off raindrops on the leaves bordering our path.

Hidden Lake is a favorite 'hidden' haunt of local (and not-so-local) fly-fishermen. Thus we were not surprise to find a couple of fishermen there ahead of us. In fact, by the time we made our way back past the lake we counted EIGHT people along the shore. Who would think a little lake at the end of a gravel and dirt road would be such a popular spot? I guess it's just a testiment to the quality fishing and amazing beauty.

At Hidden Lake's north end, we came to the Hoodoo Pass junction. I've taken the hike, up - up - up that hill. It's a pretty walk, but today our feet kept us heading toward little 'ole Goose Lake. So, around the corner and down the canyon we tramped.

Three or four Grizzlies have been sighted on the Refuge this spring / summer. However, my hikes have not turned up so much as an old Grizzly track. I have seen a few Black Bear tracks, but nothing as fresh as the one we came across on our way down to Goose.
The rain the previous evening had left this section of the trail very muddy. Thus the bear left distinct images, and we were able to set a general time he (or she although there was only the one set of tracks so. . .) had passed our way. Although it was clearly a Black Bear, and although we had our bear spray, we were still glad to see he / she had been heading back the way we'd come. That meant we weren't as likely to come around a corner and find ourselves nose-to-nose with a black hairy creature who thought it owned this stretch of forest!

As long as the frost does not come too early (and too hard), it looks like this may be a great year for berries. Certainly all of our recent hikes have had built in 'pick-your-own fruit stands' scattered along the trail. Today it was wild strawberries - and they were lovely, red, and large (for wild ones that is).

As a few frequent fishermen might admit, Goose Lake has some beautiful residents. However, if they admit to their presence, they will probably also tell you they are not so easy to catch.
Goose is a fairly shallow lake. Certainly it is not deep enough to avoid freezing to an uninhabitable point unless something keeps it from doing so. Since I've never tackled the trek back here on snowshoes, I cannot speak from experience. However, based on the fact that the fish are not stocked and the natives not only survive but obviously thrive in this little lake, I've come to the conclusion the spring holes (like the one shown above surrounded by numerous fish) must keep the lake from freezing too deep as well as provide a source of food / oxygen to keep the fish alive.

Goose Lake's water is so clear, we were able to watch the fish swimming just a few feet from shore. This photo shows one of the nice Rainbows which swam within a few yards of where we sat. A Beautiful Fish!

The day did not provide any large game sightings. However, we did not expect to see much along that line in the middle of the day. But, as I tell folks who visit Elk Lake, what you see is really dependent on what you look for. I have learned that no hike (or jog, for that matter) is without something to see. And, as a result, I've gained a deeper appreciation for the critters who share my trails and haunts. From birds to bugs, from fish to falcons, from deer to dragonflies - there is always something to see, to enjoy, and from which to learn a little more.

Some of my birding guests have taken up Dragonfly photography. While I have neither the time nor the desire (right now) to join their pursuit, several of these stripped winged something-or-others (I'm afraid I do not know Dragonfly names - yet) caught my eye. With their big eyes, they are nearly impossible to approach (one of the reasons I'm not yet ready to attempt photographing them). However, this one let me get close enough to capture a decent image.

The quiet rustling of the wind in the trees - the static vibration of a dragonfly's wings - the splash of a jumping trout - the snapping and popping of the grasshoppers - these serendaded us as we relaxed by the shore. That is until the piercing cry of an Osprey cut across these peaceful sounds. I think he was telling us to get a move on - we were trespassing on one of his favorite fishing spots. Why do fishermen get so possessive of 'their' favorite holes? Whatever the reason, our time had come to go. And so, once again, I said 'good-bye' to this peaceful spot and headed back up the trail to Hidden (hoping the bear had not finished his business and headed our direction). Ahhh - what a lovely way to idle away an afternoon!
Lady of the Lake

2011-08-18T15:19:00.000-06:00

Trout Unlimited at elk lake

Sitting just west of Yellowstone National Park as some benefits - well, it actually has a LOT of benefits! Obviously the place overflows with wild, untouched nature. The wildlife viewing and variety aren't too bad either. The natural beauty still takes my breath away even after nearly 8 privileged years. However, one often overlooked (or at least underrated) benefit is the variety of people we are blessed to meet.

I think we have had the opportunity to meet (and, with most, get to know) people from just about every ethnic, social, and economic class - at least a sampling. We've had guests from many countries and from nearly every state of the union (I'd risk saying every, but I'll play it conservative just in case we've missed one). The best part is learning a little bit about these folks - making some connections - becoming friends.

We have had the privilege of not only hosting, but getting to know folks (both individuals and groups) involved with a variety of different causes and organization. Often we find that while our opinion (if differing) often changes little, yet our differenes are not as different as we previously thought - and we may even find we see eye-to-eye on more issues than we'd imagined.

A recent visit from Trout Unlimited is a perfect example. I had heard of TU, but I really knew nothing about them. In my mind, they were just another one of the conservation groups whose work I assumed had something to do with trout and trout streams (deep observation, I know).

Having come from the Rocky's west side, in our 'prior' life we were probably more aware of the 'other' perspective. In other words, we'd seen ranchers harrased because their cows were drinking from (and standing in and, yes, even pooping in) a possible Salmon spawning stream. We had watched as livestock-owning landowners were nearly forced to fence out streams running through their property - perchance a Salmon ever swam up that waterway. Yet the whole thing often made little sense; especially as we knew several of those streams went dry by early summer and no fish had been seen plying those waters - at least not in record.

So, when Chris Hunt from Trout Unlimited contacted me about hosting the first TU Blogger Tour at Elk Lake, well, I was interested in their business from a purely business standpoint. However, I must admit I was also a little curious. Perhaps five or six or seven years ago I would not have been, but, after meeting all those different people and hearing all those different stories and seeing things from all those different perspectives - I actually have reason to hope I have become - if not more agreeable, at least more tolerant (and a bit more curious). TU and the bloggers didn't let me down.

Of course, the first question was (at least from my perspective) the most obvious. What's the point? What is TU hoping to accomplish here? While I still don't fully understand, Chris Hunt put it this way in his July 24th post on the TU Blog, "The first-ever Trout Unlimited Blogger Tour starts today in southwest Montana–four bloggers are attending the inaugural event at Elk Lake Resort in the heart of Centennial Valley. Bloggers will get a look at TU’s work all over the region to restore prime trout and grayling habitat, and to protect intact habitat from unwise or unneeded industrial development."

(Above photo courtesy of Jeff ("Owl") of OwlJones.com) I must admit, the Centennial Valley is the last place I'd expect TU to have taken their bloggers to view the protection of habitat from 'unwise and unneeded industrial development.' After all, the Centennial is probably one of the least developed spots in the lower 48. We have no industry. Shucks, as our visitors will attest, we barely have roads (at least it feels that way some times). However, maybe therein lies the logic: This is the way we 'want' things to look - at least as often as possible. Certainly the Centennial shows the pristine side of a protected environment.

As you will notice, I can't claim ownership of any of the photos in this post. They are all courtesy of TU and the bloggers. Photo credit is given with each photo. The header photo, a beautiful Grayling picture, is courtesy of Eat More Brook Trout - a TU blog.

(Another photo courtesy of Jeff ("Owl") of OwlJones.com) Usually the best way to judge someone (or something) is by what they say. While we've all known folks who 'talk good' but fail to live up to their words - typically an organization is out to attract folks with similar beliefs (and, of course, convert others to those beliefs). Thus they usually state their viewpoint in a fairly straightforward manner. So. . .what does TU's website say? Their National Conservation Agenda from September 2010 says they are seeking to protect, "Native trout and salmon watersheds. . .from pollution from energy development, mining, agricultural run-off, acid deposition, and other sources. . ." Of course this is just a 'piece' of the document. I'd encourage you to read the whole thing. (I chose this section because it supports what TU put on its blog - which gives them credence.)

(Above Grayling photo courtesy of TU via their Eat More Brook Trout.com blog) So, who were these guys and why were they here? For that matter, what difference did it make? Based on scraps of conversation heard around the breakfast table the first morning, TU is seeking to expand their base. They are looking for new and innovative ways to reach a broader section of the population. They are seeking to show the 'worthiness' of their goals. They desire to reach across the age and gender gaps to interact effectively with more people, in more areas, and from more walks of life. Part of this plan involved these four bloggers. But why these four? Well, if rumors hold water, TU ran a contest and these four won. Now, I doubt they let anyone enter. Obviously they didn't contact me :-) Perhaps that is because I obviously do not live, eat, and breathe fishing - nor do I have the ability to write interesting and compelling fishing stories creating a faithful following with similar compulsions.

(Above Rainbow photo courtesy The Tail Out Travis DuBois' blog) Because I was dependent upon the bloggers for photos - and some have failed to respond to my plea for pictures - I do not have a picture of Mike Sepelak of Mike's Gone Fishing - Again!. However, there is proof he was here posted on Sanders' blog. One of the things which surprised me the most was the short time many of these guys have been blogging. The Elk Lake blog has been up and running longer than even the longest running blog represented in this group. Mike, who has been blogging since 2009, won the 'longest running' honors.

Mike is a retired North Carolinan who seemed to be the 'note-taker' of the crowd. Thus I am a bit dissapointed he has written so little about his trip. I had hoped he would give us the best run down on the 'whats' and 'wherefores' related to TU and their goals and aspirations. As its sounds like he's encountered both computer issues and air travel earned 'rewards', perhaps this will come.

(This photo courtesy of Trout Unlimited's Blog) The next longest blogger is a young man named Travis. His blog The Tail Out started because, as he said, he likes to fish, likes to take pictures and, as a result, was filling his computer with records of his excursions. So, why not? Travis comes from Alaska but currently lives and works in Pocatello, Idaho. In my humble opinion, this young man is the group's best writer. While I've not become a follower (nor have I joined the ranks of the 'fish fascinated'), I have enjoyed reading his posts.

This photo, labeled "A Common Montana Vine" from Travis' blog, shows not only his sense of humor but also his unique view of his surroundings.

So, what was Travis' take on TU? Well, I had to chuckle when Travis admitted over breakfast that first morning, "You guys are probably going to kill me, but I'm not a member of TU." I suspect the TU folks already knew this - and I admire them for bringing along an 'outsider'. However, in the end, Travis had this to say, "Being perfectly honest I had never considered becoming a TU member. Since I don't smoke a pipe or own any tweed I thought I would be an outcast. The fact that I occasionally fish a San Juan under a bobber (whoops I mean indicator) wouldn't have helped the situation. Those were completely unfounded assumptions that my skeptic tendencies had created. Seeing and learning about the work that has and is being done here in the Centennial Valley really impressed me. It was clear that TU is a well oiled conservation machine, for anglers, and more specifically for the next generation of anglers. Looking to the future, TU also realizes that they will have to pass the torch to new members for the continued success of their protected watersheds located all over the US."

Does that sound like a plug? Travis freely admits that it is. "OK, if it sounds like I'm plugging TU, I am. Being an angler (fly or conventional) should be synonymous with being a conservationist. Not a tree hugger or a hippy (unless that's what you're in to), but a sportsmen who appreciates their public land and resources that it offers. This public land we can access freely and use should be protected, and TU does an excellent job doing that. Trout Unlimited is not just a good 'ol boys club that meets once a week to tie size 22 trico's."

You'll have to read the post for the rest - however, as I'm sure you can see, Travis came away with a positive perspective which I am sure pleased TU immensely.

(Owl's picture courtesy of - well, quite frankly, I'm not sure. I've found it on more than one of the blogger's sites so. . .take your pick) Next in blogging senority is Jeff Jones, better known as "Owl" from Owl Jones.com. I must say, Owl brought laughter to the group. His fun sense of humor (read his blog, you'll see what I mean) and his willingness to take some ribbing (and give a bit as well), added fun to what could (possibly) have been a serious event.

Best known (by the end of their sojourn) for his Darth vader helmet - Owl readily admits his aversion to insects (and I readily admit Montana has a few :-) - Owl is an unemployed guy from Georgia. Obviously not a slacker (his well-setup blog proves this), he obviously loves the sport. So, what was his perspective? In his post, Total Disclosure he says, "I have not always been the biggest TU fan or supporter. I’ve been a member of TU on and off several times over the last decade. I’m sure my opinions of TU National over the years has irked more than a few TU members. The truth is, I can’t make apologies about the opinions I held in the past because I still feel those opinions were warranted at the time. This “Blogger Tour” event where we got to sit down and really talk to some of the leadership has possibly even confirmed those former opinions, because the light has been shined on the way TU is transforming itself into a bigger, better organization
"

I must admit, the thing I appreciated most about these guys was their honesty. TU possibly could have wined and dined and fished these guys into compliance. However, not only do I think TU didn't try that approach, but I really don't think any of these guys could have been bought. That, more than anything, is probably the best advertisement TU will receive from this blogging tour.

(Sander's photo courtesy of his blog) The youngest blogger (not in age but in blogging experience) is Sean Sanders, better known as 'Sanders'. A likeable guy with a ready smile, Sanders lives in Colorado and works for a copier company to fund his real passion - fishing! Sanders has only been blogging since March 2011 yet he already has a faithful following. Asked what prompted him to begin he replied he liked to write, was passionate about fishing, and wanted to spare his wife from having to listen to every last little detail of his fishing escapades.

Sanders' take on this whole TU event came from yet another perspective. In his post Montana Discussion he said, "The four days spent in the Centennial Valley were more than just a great fishing trip, it was an education. It was important to see the people and places my membership dollars support. It was important to get that interaction. And as I continue to support TU and their ongoing efforts, I am confident that they have my best interests in mind.
"

All in all, I think Corey Fisher (photo courtesy of the TU blog) and the rest of the Trout Unlimited crew ought to be mighty happy with their bloggers' response. Furthermore, if one can base anything on the very different viewpoints of these four guys, I think TU definitely has its place in the overall conservation scheme.

Lady of the Lake

2011-08-10T12:00:00.003-06:00

A Hike Across The Lake

It has been a busy summer; we are glad. However, busy days translate into little time to hike. The last few weeks, most of my outdoor time has been spent jogging - not a sport at which I excell (nor one I particularly enjoy) but, nonetheless, a good way to get quick exercise and enjoy the sunrise.

Due to the 'lack' of hiking, however, I obviously jump on a chance to go, even for a couple hours. So when I found a little time one afternoon, my faithful helper, friend, and co-hiker, Anna, and I did a quick review of our options. Nothing too long. Nothing to far away. Nothing too familiar (after all, we wanted to make the most of this window in time). So, after a brief deliberation, we decided to take sa boat across the bay and hike around on Elk Mountain's west slope.

The afternoon shimmered with light. A breeze threatened to become wind as thunderclouds billowed in the distance. However, we decided to risk a squall (which didn't come), grabbed our cameras, and headed for the boat dock.

I spend the majority of my time behind the camera. Since Anna finds herself in the same position, we have decided to photograph each other (keeping our fingers crossed our cameras survive the experience) to record our presence in this place we love so much. So. . .this post will feature more personal photos than normal. If nothing else they will prove I really live in this amazing place!

Cut across Elk Mountain's west face is a trail, almost road-width. A leftover of a bygone era, this pounded track used to feel the hooves of many animals moving between grazing sections. Known as a stock driveway, one can find similar routes beaten into the terrain in various locations - sometimes the most unlikely ones.

The cattle had been grazing this side of the lake for a few weeks. Thus the stock driveway and numerous other 'preferred' paths were well used. We stuck to the stock driveway awhile, photographing and enjoying the flowers which flourish in the cool shade provided by the large evergreens.

Where to go? Awww - what a delightful dilemna. We were enjoying ourselves so much, it really didn't matter. However, in the end, we decided to hike further up the mountain's side, thinking to gain better vistas (and loose a little of the 'cow' aroma). Along the way we found more flowers to enjoy.

As we climbed, the terrain became more rocky - the perfect setting for Montana's tough and beautiful state flower - the ever gorgeous Bitterroot. I know every state has its flower. However, I can think of few state flowers which so perfectly reflect the character of the people. Tough. Hardy. Able to grow in a less than perfect environment. Beautiful in spite of its challenges. Useful. I suspect, if I gave it much thought, I could come up with a few more attributes to compare the flower to the people. However, the hike must go on - and, in our case, up!

Except for the well traveled trail, we were quickly climbing out of the favorite cow haunts. The grass became taller. The smells more forest and less bovine. Nonetheless, like the Bitterroot, Montana's cows are hardy stock. As we crested out on the top of the first knoll, what did we find? A few more cows. These heifers were so curious they actually followed us for awhile.

Okay, I'll admit it. I like cows. I appreciate cowboys and cowgirls and farmers and their wives and all those who have, for the most part, 'conserved' much of the western lifestyle and countryside which outsiders so enjoy. So, I couldn't resist a few pictures of this black beauty. But, you have to admit she has a pretty face!

From what I've read, photographers like contrasting elements - amongst other things. Certainly the rocky scree which occupied most of our remaining time, was fairly bursting with contrast. Rocks. Flowers. Twisted limbs of long departed sage. Ferns. Amazing. Even with full sun we couldn't resist trying to capture some of the magic of this hillside - visible from the lodge but probably visited by very very few.

I stand amazed at how something so harsh and unforgiving can provide succor to something so delicate and beautiful. It gives meaning to the phrase, "Beauty from ashes."

With all her amazing talent, I do not think our recent wedding florist could not top the beauty found naturally in God's creation. It's almost as someone planted these together, between the rough pock-marked granite boulder and the yellow lichen splashed rock.

Try as I might - and I did try (I even have Anna's photo for proof) - I couldn't begin to capture the beauty in these wildflowers. However, I have to say I think Anna did a great job of capturing the essence of my loves. Elk Lake in the background. A camera in hand. A rocky mountain setting. Sunshine - blue skies - a wild country. I am so very blessed!

Obviously I am not alone in my enjoyment of this incredible piece of creation. Anna loves it too. Obviously! Thus it is only appropriate I take a picture of her in her favorite environment too.

We just couldn't get enough. At one point Anna asked me, "What are we going to do with all these pictures?" Well, at the least, we'll create some blog posts - and some memories.

Many of the trees on Elk Mountain have succumbed to the pine beattle plague. While I hated to see much of the verdant mountain-side turn rusty and then grey, I hope one day to enjoy the Aspen's softer greens and brilliant reds and golds as they, hopefully, retake old territory. Mixed in with the next generation of evergreens (seen in the cow portraits) and the stately monarchs (like this gnarly old man of the mountain), perhaps one day the mountain will regain its former beauty.

Even now, as these photos have shown, there is beauty around every corner and across every log - and, in this case, beside every rock. Red lichen. Red flowers. And, look closely. The backdrop is not sky as you might have first supposed. That is the lake's blue waters.

A few feet further and the vegetation opened fully to reveal the steep rock slide we had just traversed resting above the beautiful waters of Elk Lake. What a view!

The view across the lake looking north toward the Madisons was expansive, to say the least. A deep blue jewel raked by the wind's fingers, cradled by sage green hills splashed with dark evergreens against the deep blue mountain backdrop and canopied by the blue, grey, and white of a thundercloud-studded sky - this is Big Sky country at its best!

And then there's the view looking south-west. A simple little resort nestled amongst the hills sprinkled with sagebrush and evergreens and resting along the shore's of a quiet lake - has anyone ever enjoyed a more wild and picturesque home? I can't imagine it!

How quickly the time flies. Soon duty called. Responding appropriately we followed the grassy ridge down to the lake shore then briefly amused some nearby fishermen as, within feet of our faithful transport, we searched the shoreline wondering where we'd left our boat. Oh - just over there, around the point of that hill. Clamber aboard. A quick jaunt across the lake. And we returned to the home place which had seemed so far - and yet so near - just a few brief moments earlier.

Lady of the Lake

2011-08-03T20:16:00.000-06:00

A Fishy Project - Grayling Reintroduction

I have mentioned Narrow's Creek in numerous previous posts. The pond on Narrow's Creek (which sits up the draw from the lodge) has been the 'star feature' of numerous photos. Many guests have traversed the quarter mile or so up the narrow canyon from which the creek derives its name to enjoy the wildlife which frequent the little stream and the pond.

However, the real story behind this unassuming creek is a lot deeper than the few inches of water which trickle down the canyon and a lot more impressive than the pond's pretty face. In fact, Narrow's Creek has been the subject of numerous studies and even more stories over the years.

Why? For at least a couple of reasons. One, Narrow's Creek, that little, unassuming, NARROW creek which flows down the canyon, has been the spawning grounds for numerous generations of fish. Cutthroat Trout and Grayling have entertained guests and produced a healthy population of young fish for Elk Lake over the years.

Many times I have heard stories of the fish spawning in this creek. Thick as fleas on a dog's back, I've been told. You could reach in and grab them as they swam by, I've heard. Water splashing marked their passage and lullabied many to sleep, so they say.

That story ended several years ago. By the time we came to live at Elk Lake, Narrow's Creek was an intermittent visitor, certainly not reliable enough to provide spawning habitat - for that matter, not even reliable enough to keep the creekbed grass free. Thus we lost our Grayling population, and the Cuts have lost their ability to reproduce. Thankfully, that is about to change!

For several years we have complained about the management (or mis-management) of the creek. For several years we have asked to have the Grayling reintroduced and their spawning grounds restored. Finally our voice has been heard. Simple, unassuming Narrow's Creek has hit the top (or nearly the top) of the Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks' priority list.

Unlike Trout, Grayling are difficult to raise in a hatchery situation. Thus the best way to protect Montana's native Grayling population is to protect their spawning habitat. At least that makes sense to lay-people like me. However, the fact that Narrow's Creek has not flowed properly in several years to testimony to inconsistencies and mis-placed authority.

While I have little doubt everyone involved in the past Narrow's Creek management had good intentions, sometimes people were allowed to 'put their theories into practice' without having to prove the viability of their ideas before applying them. As a result, Narrow's Creek has been tampered with. Having lived here several years - up close and personal with Narrow's Creek - I believe I have earned the right to say: it has been harmed.

Like every other publicly owned 'situation', the management of Montana's fisheries is not without issues. One major issue which has had direct impact on Narrow's Creek and Elk Lake's Grayling population is the 'ownership' issue. It seems the USFS owns (okay, we, the people, own, but it sure seems like they own) the land and the Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks (FWP) manages the fish living in the streams on that land. This works fine until there is a disagreement on how the waterways ought to be managed.

When we first arrived at Elk Lake, there was a 'fish' guy working for the USFS who was convinced the reason Narrow's Creek's flow had diminished was because the acquifer which fed it was diminishing. Basically his theory said: If I slow the creek's flow, I can replenish the acquifer and thus, ultimately, improve the stream's flow.

This theory, based on a study done in Colorado (I have the study as I questioned his ideas and was given the study as 'proof' he was right), required the re-introduction of beavers. However, because the FWP did not hold to the same idea, the beavers failed to arrive (and, based Beaver dam issues which have plagued the Grayling spawning out of Upper Red Rock Lake, I am glad they did not). So, to 'prove' he was right, he stuffed the creek bed full of every piece of downed timber and natural junk he could find.

Take a look at the preceeding photo. As you can see, the meadow around Narrow's Creek is virtually 'junk' free. The creek bed, however, is crammed full of everything 'natural' which he could lay his hands upon. For a broader view, take a closer look at the photo at the top of the page.

Unfortunately, this person had the authority to make such drastic changes based on a study done in Colorado. And, his idea was implemented the full length of the creek bed - from the upper meadow, clear down to where it crosses the road and enters the resort grounds.

Perhaps, had all things been equal, this would have worked. However, this is Montana, not Colorado - and that resulted in some big differences. The major difference - the soil makeup. As the moles reveal each winter, the ground over which Narrow's Creek flows is full of rock - little rock! In fact, these tunnels look like they've been created in a gravel pile.

So the inevitable happened. The creek, gagging on all the junk in its path, slowed. As it slowed, more and more water seeped into the soil instead of running down the stream. Slowly, but surely, year after year, less and less water made it downstream to the spawning beds. Without doubt it made it to the lake - but through the soil, not down the creek bed.

To the USFS's employee's credit, we did endure several dry years. However, I have talked with a grand-daughter of the first owners. Gloria spent many years at Elk Lake as a young person and then as an adult. In fact, she is one of the few Selbys who continue to visit the Centennial on a regular basis. Thus I have had the privilege of hearing some of her memories.

She spoke of the fish spawning in Narrow's Creek. Her stories confirmed the stories I'd heard from numerous past guests. I asked her if the creek had ever NOT run. No, she replied. It had always run - even in the dry years. Perhaps they didn't have to put up with well-meaning but mis-informed Forest Service employees who were given too much authority with too little accountability.

Yet he doesn't deserve all the blame. I chuckle when I think of our first conversation with the USFS before we purchased Elk Lake. We were told Narrow's Creek was a sensitive and important fish habitat. Well, I must say, it makes one wonder how come such a sensitive and important habitat doesn't warrant a decent culvert! While this has been a very good water year, every spring, at least for a little while, the creek runs over the road. Why? Because the culvert is in such bad shape it cannot handle even a 'normal' year's water flow. In this picture you can see the water running over the road, the 'pond' it has created over the years, the 'new creek bed' which flows from that pond to the creek bed, and the 'real' creek bed off to the right.

All that said, the FWP finally set their sights on fixing the problem. And, as these things go, we finally broke free of the low water years. As a result, this spring we had more water than has ever been documented flowing down Narrow's Creek. We had trout trying to spawn up the creek. And, we have hope that at least some of the issues which have harmed this 'sensitive and important' habitat will finally be handled properly. In the mean time, we've enjoyed a babbling creek outside our door - even if it did threaten to go over one of our footbridges.

A walk up the creek this spring (and even this summer) has been a totally different experience. While the creek has always flowed (or at least trickled) above and below the pond, this spring it ROARED out of the pond. (By the way, I asked the Selby's grand-daughter if she knew if the dam at the pond's base was natural or man-made - since it seems no one else knows. Her answer: I don't know. So. . .we still don't know).

The pond practically burst at its seams this spring. Obviously the water could only get so high before it flowed over the dam. However, its limits were maxed out (and it was a great sight to see).

Never a large creek, Narrow's Creek still couldn't contain itself within its banks. It's almost as if the little creek knew it had finally received a friendly glance and was doing its best to show its true worth.

Further up the trail the creek passes through what I call a 'rocky scree'. This very rocky section has a faint creek bed, but, for the most part, the creek appears to have traditionally flowed underground from the base of the upper meadow to just below the rocky scree where it pops back up again to chatter its way on down the valley. However, this year, for a short period of time, the underground passage couldn't contain the water flow. Thus it spilled all over the rocky little canyon - a sight to behold and admire.

Even the upper meadow's creek bed (which traditionally has run every spring for at least a couple of months) could not contain the water's flow. Thus, for a few short weeks the meadow floor became a mini-swamp.

But the point of this post is not just to harp on mis-management. While it does frustrate anyone who has been privy to the ways of government, there is reason to rejoice. For, not only do we appear to have broken free of the dry-cycle, Narrow's Creek has finally received the attention it deserves. And, while no one has attempted to un-clog its waterways (which I still cannot understand), there is a plan in process to once again re-establish the Grayling and their spawning habitat at Elk Lake.

The first phase focuses on getting Grayling back into the lake. As a result, three years ago the Flathead fish hatchery hatched a bunch of Red Rock Grayling eggs. However, no Grayling made it to Elk Lake that year. Nothing the next (in spite of hatching a few more eggs). But finally, last year, we received a load of Grayling ranging 5 inches and up. So far, no one has caught any of these newcomers.

But, according to FWP, the best way to get the process going is to hatch the eggs here. Thus, this spring, the little un-named creek which flows on the south side of the property took on a new look. Several man-made pools created with rocks and tarps slowed the water and created a reservoir into which the FWP put PVC pipes.

These pipes carried water into the Incubator Buckets. We were first introduced to these buckets last year when we helped transport some Grayling eggs to another set of incubator buckets on Elk Springs Creek. They are quite an ingenious setup which has showed promise in other areas (i.e. not an untested, unproven idea) and has worked well on Elk Springs Creek.

Water, carried from the pools by the PVC pipes, flows into the lower part of the bucket. About two-thirds of the way up, a screen is placed across the bucket. The fish eggs are placed on this screen. Above the screen and near the top of the bucket, the water exits the incubator. While this experiment did not have the success it has enjoyed on Elk Springs Creek (for numerous reasons), a portion of the fry did hatch. You can see a few in this photo - white strings with a 'bump' head.

Once the fry hatch, they swim to the top and are carried by the water flow out the pipe near the top of the bucket. From here they begin to make their way downstream. Here you can see another fry (middle right side) in one of the lower 'pools'.

If everything works right, these fry will be imprinted by this stream. Thus the second stage of the project must move ahead. As of right now, it sounds like the FWP (working with the USFS for a change) will be piping water from Narrows Creek (during spawning season), to what they are now calling Spring Creek (that unnamed creek on the south side of the resort). Spring Creek will undergo some work to make it 'spawning friendly'. Thus, Grayling which are looking for a place to spawn (and any of these young who survive life in the big bad lake) will have a place to pass on their genes. And, eventually, Narrows Creek is to be re-habitated as well. So - - - if (and, of course, these are always big 'ifs') everything goes according to plan, Elk Lake will end up with two spawning streams and once again enjoy a locally reproducing population of Grayling. . .

And, if this trout (it is cammoflauged between the two pipes about the middle of the picture) has any say, some Cutthroat Trout as well. One way or the other, there is hope simple little Narrows Creek will once again be allowed to run free. And, best case scenario, native Grayling will once again live and reproduce within the waters and tributaries of Elk Lake.

Lady of the Lake

2011-07-27T11:46:00.003-06:00

A Wedding Outside Yellowstone (Part 2)

While we were working away preparing lots of scrumptuous food, over a dozen delicious pies, and finalizing our 'beautifying' project on the front patio, members of the bridal party, good friends, and hard-working family were busy turning Elk Lake's grounds into the perfect wedding location.

The wedding day dawned bright and clear. While June can be an 'iffy' month (weather-wise) at 7,000 feet, the adundant sunshine added to the celebratory mood. The flowers which were in the dining room overnight caught the morning light and made our early morning coffee a festive affair.

Early morning sunlight added an almost unearthly glow to the tent the crew had set up the previous afternoon. Soon this skeletal structure would take on a personality all its own as it was dressed in its wedding finery.

However, before everyone tackled their various tasks, they all settled in to enjoy the morning sunlight, a good cup of coffee, some great visiting, and a serving (or two) of a tasty breakfast. In keeping with the bride and groom's 'theme', we prepared Blueberry-Huckleberry French Toast. . .

And a heartier egg dish to accompany the fresh fruit, cereals, yogurt, toast, hard-boiled eggs and various beverages which typically adorn our breakfast buffet.

As I said, the flowers had spent the night in our dining room where, even bunched together, they added a beautiful splash of color to our morning activities. The bride had chosen not only beautiful flowers, but durable ones. Furthermore, many of her flowers looked like their wild cousins growing in the yard and on the surrounding hillsides.

Yet even beautiful flowers can be enhanced by a skilled hand. Thus Jamie set to work shaping and molding the various blossoms and greens into works of art. Here she is crafting the bridal bouquet.

While she worked, others were setting up the 'chapel' and the wedding arch.

Even here flowers were used to adds a touch of 'natural' beauty so in keeping with the Elk Lake setting.

What amazed me most was the bride's 'eye' for things which not only looked beautiful but actually enhanced Elk Lake's natural charm. Her wise choices made everything 'fit' with an amazing degree of success.

Even the wedding favors, the 'stage' upon which they set, and their unique and natural display flowed with the overall natural yet classy scheme. An old wagon, some burlap, flowers, green hills, blue sky - who could ask for more?

In keeping with the flavor 'theme', the groom's mother labored many hours to prepare the beautiful and tasty wedding favors. I really cannot imagine anything more in keeping with a Yellowstone Country wedding. Huckleberries and mountains are such a natural pair! Even the hand-crafted labels, the whimsical country-style fabric and the old-fashioned ball jars 'fit' to a 'T'.

Here, surrounded by all this spreadable love, rested a simple guestbook - again the perfect fit. As I watched guests adding their notes and good wishes, I imagined the bride and groom enjoyed (and will continue to enjoy) many hours reliving the memories of this day.

The wine table - so elegant dressed in white linen and crystal - also took to the natural setting. Rough barn board backdrop; wildflower-look posies in a ball jar 'vase'; wood hand-carved chair to the side - all worked together to create that perfect blend of elegant culture and natural beauty.

Clear jars of lemonade and ice water bursting with fresh sliced lemons - sitting on a rustic wood table against a backdrop of rough barn boards flanked by the wildflower-look posies in their almost matching ball jar also fit the scene to perfection.

In the tent the tables, dressed to perfection in classy white linens, kept the ideal blend of culture and nature. Twisted willow branches and river rock in clear glass vases - ball jars of wildflower posies - rough-spun table runners, green grass floor, woodsy cabin and sagebrush backdrop - who could ask for a better combination for a Rocky Mountain wedding?

Finally everything was set up and ready to go. The wedding chapel, white chairs and burlap runner on a green grass carpet, flanked by flashing silver-green aspens rising from wildflower studded earth, blue sky overhead, and snow-capped mountains for a backdrop - WOW, I can't imagine a more beautiful beginning of the road?

One of our employees climbed the hill behind the lodge for a bird's eye view of the ceremony. As you can see, it couldn't have been a prettier day or a more gorgeous backdrop to celebrate the joining of a most wonderful couple. Nick and Sarah - we wish you many happy years together. May your road always be enhanced by nature's beauty and made more enjoyable by those touches of class.

Lady of the Lake

2011-07-21T10:19:00.006-06:00

A Wedding Outside Yellowstone

Weddings conjure up a multitude of thoughts and feelings. Happiness. Beauty. Precious Memories. Undying Love. For many, the setting in which they place this momentous 'jewel' is just as important as all the details which circle round to enhance the day.

For a growing number of couples, a natural location seems most fitting. Certainly for those who have chosen to take their vows at Elk Lake, this has been the case. The beautiful mountain backdrop - the aspens flashing silver and green - the wildflowers brilliant colorspots against their green relief - the singing birds - the rustling wind - the smells and sounds of pure nature manicured just enough to provide comfort without detracting from the wild beauty - these assets and more are the powerful draw which Elk Lake offers the nature-loving couple. And so, this June, we enjoyed the first of two weddings at Elk Lake this summer.

However, it seems no one involved in a wedding - even one which takes advantage of a naturally beautiful location; even one performed in such a serene location - is immune to the work involved in bringing the event together. This bride, a woman after my own pallate, chose to have pies instead of wedding cake. The groom, a man with obviously good taste, loved huckleberries. Therefore the original plan called for myriads of huckleberry pies. However, with a shortage of huckleberries last year, we ended up with huckleberry, huckleberry-blueberry, banana cream, fudgy-pecan, and dutch-caramel apple. Lots of variety. Lots of pies. Lots of work!

The morning before the wedding found Anna (my wonderfully faithful, energetic and talented helper and friend) and I to our elbows in the pie-making prcoess well before dawn. One of the benefits of rising early is watching the sunrise paint the sky. While this particular morning provided little time to soak in the beauty, I did stop for one quick photo.

Then it was off-to-the-races as we dug into our work with gusto. Note the time (we're 8 hours into the day with barely time to grab a bite - but we're making good progress!).

Part of the challenge of pie making (besides the obvious: flaky crust, perfect consistency filling, beautiful appearance) is they do not hold well. If we were making the wedding 'cake', we could have started the process days in advance. Pies, on the other hand, require much of the work to be done within 24 hours of serving. Furthermore, in addition to the wedding pies, we were in charge of rehearsal dinner. So. . .in addition to pies, Anna is preparing the fruit topping for the Strawberry-Coconut Cheesecake (yep - OH, WOW!) we served for part of the evening's dessert.

Nonetheless, pie making had to move forward. While much of the process could not be completed until the wedding day, thankfully most of the fillings - and a small number of pies - could be put together in the 24 hours before "The Day." So we prepared Apple Pie Filling.

One of my biggest fears - outside of some or all of the pies turning into total flops - was runny fruit pies. With apples this isn't such a problem. However, berry pies are another story. Certainly one can add and add and add thickener, but who likes a fruit pie which seems a close cousin (in look and taste) to colored chalk? But, if you drain the juice the pies take a LOT less thickener and the fruit flavor is not dimmed in the slightest. So. . .we allowed the berries to thaw thoroughly before putting them in a raised strainer over a bowl. The end result - over a 1/2 gallon of wonderful juice to use in future fruit sauces and syrups - AND - beautiful consistency on our fruit pies. Yipee!

Thankfully the Fudgy-Pecan pies were not as touchy. Nonetheless, they had a superb nutty flavor which provided a nice contrast to all the fruit.

However, I can certainly understand the bridal couples' attraction to the fruit pies. Not only do huckleberries add that 'touch of wild' combined with a 'touch of class' so approriate for an Elk Lake wedding, a double crusted pie topped with a light brush of butter and sprinkled with a dusting of sugar just looks - YUMMY!

As morning faded into afternoon, and afternoon waned into early evening, things began coming together. Most of the pie filling was finally finished. Numerous pie shells were lightly baked and awaiting their tasty middles. A few pies were already awaiting the knife and fork.

Were it not for the concentrated effort of many willing hands, however, things would not have come together in time to lay out the lavish (yet simple) spread requested by the bride and groom for their Rehearsal Dinner. Yet it all came together - and I must say, after our long day it looked more than good enough to eat. They must have agreed as it all disappeared in a flash.

Sunrise the next morning found us front and center - or at least bellied to the counter, the kitchen counter that is. Pies began going together in earnest. Fillings which could not be made in advance were assembled. Pies were heading for the oven (or refrigerator) in rapid succession. The finish line was in sight!

AAHHH - we made it! Pies, beautiful pies in a variety of flavors and colors, adorned our counters. And none too soon as, dinner finished, the wedding guests awaited their dessert.

It's been a matter of discussion at Elk Lake for years - does presentation really matter? Well, it obviously took more time, but after all that work we couldn't resign ourselves to just throwing a piece of pie on a barren plate. So, in spite of our rapidly dwindling time, we plated our pies with caramel and chocolate sauce, paired many pieces with creamy homestyle vanilla ice cream, and sent them out - a beautiful finish to a beautiful wedding, even if I say so myself!

In part two we'll look at all the other things going on while we were sweating over a hot stove. Against Elk Lake's beautiful backdrop, several other people labored to personalize the setting for a very special couple to enjoy their once-in-a-lifetime day.

Lady of the Lake

2011-07-14T13:21:00.017-06:00

Spring Projects

If it isn't one thing, it's two. At least that is how I've heard it said. Certainly our 'to-do' list every spring has more than one thing on it. And, like most 'to-do' lists, we finish the priority items but often fail to get around to those less pressing. However, this spring, thanks to some SUPERB workers and some generous friends, we managed to get to a couple of items which have always been relegated to next year.

Those who have been visiting Elk Lake over the last few years have noticed the cabin remodels which have been underway for quite some time. This year our 'to-do' list had finishing the lastest three on the priority end - and re-siding another a little farther down the list. We finished the latest three, and even managed to begin re-siding the fourth.

Regular guests will recognize this photo of Cabin 1 - USFS dark brown paint, white trim, and uncovered wood deck off the front. This was the only cabin without a covered porch. As a result, the deck needed replacing. That we accomplished before the season began with the help of some wonderful friends. However, there was more on that to-do list - and we made a good stab at finishing the rest the first couple weeks of June.

Note the new siding, new deck, and covered porch. What you may not be able to see clearly are the new door and windows. So, thanks to some willing hands and a little extra time, we are now about 1/2 done with another cabin. Yipee!

Another project I've been hoping to accomplish the last few months was what I call 'firming up' the theme in Cabin 7. Each of the remodeled cabins has a distinct theme. Cabin 7 is our moose cabin. However, finding quality yet reasonble moose decor has been somewhat difficult. Thus when my good friend, Gary, offered to let me enlarge and hang one of his moose photos, I jumped at the opportunity. However, finding time to matt and frame this beauty became a challenge - especially as I am still quite slow (I've learned speed comes with experience). However, it is done and now hangs above the bed - a beautiful photo to help 'set' the theme.

It always frustrates me to find I have not taken an adequate 'before' picture. This is one of those times. However, at least you can get an 'idea' of what our project would require. The rock patio is clearly defined. Yet up against the lodge in front of the dining room and to the right of the entry steps was the grassy, nasty, unfinished 'rock junk pile'.

THIS was one of our biggest non-priority projects for the spring. While the main part of the patio is a beautiful work completed in the early 80's, there were sections in front of the dining room which were anything but beautiful. And, as we learned tearing it out, it had once had a 'life'. A small fish / bird pond resided in one spot. However, part of it looked like it had never passed the 'vision-in-its-creator's-eye' point. And so, once again, with the help of our hard-working crew, we set about to beautify another spot in need. This time, the impetutus (besides the obvious) was a wedding planned for the end of the week (which I hope to cover in detail in the next couple of blog posts).

In this photo you can see the project in its early stages. The loose rock which used to fill the 'rock dump' has been removed and stacked on the existing patio and walk-way. A flowerbed is in progress - and even the youngest worker is helping spread the sand which will serve as the base for new pavers where the fish/bird pond resided years ago.

This was definitely an 'all hands on board' project. Everyone had a job and everyone contributed in a major way. From laying the pavers to filling and packing the sand and soil around them to

Creating a new flower bed for the sheer pleasure of adding beauty to an already overwhelmingly beautiful landscape. Here is Anna, one of our faithful 'slaves' with her "tool of choice" - a very large screwdriver.

Like most projects, we were getting down to the wire. The wedding was TOMORROW. We HAD to get this thing together. Unfortunately the rocks we'd pulled out of this 'mess' had mostly been smaller (I suspect the area we were reconstructing had been the 'catch-all'. Anything too small. Anything which broke. Anything which just didn't 'fit' with the layout was tossed over here. So. . .once we'd used everything large enough for our purposes, we had to go looking for more. Thankfully we have a tractor because Craig found some MONSTERS lurking along the road. These we used to finish up.

Anna planted a nice variety of beautiful plants to releave the starkness of the rocky path. We were able to find a several which 'they say' will survive our winter lows. However, the love of cooking did sway us a little - we had to add a few herbs which, sadly, will not survive winter. Nonetheless they'll be put to good use this summer!

I must say, I am extremely thankful for Anna's green thumb and artistic eye! She took a pile of dirt and turned it into - well, as you can see - a thing of beauty. Furthermore, to give credit where credit is due, she's the one who got this project rolling in the first place. Thank you Anna - and the whole crew!

The final result is definitely something of which we are all proud. It not only finishes off what I have always considered an 'eye-sore' outside our front door, it makes the front patio larger and more functional. Furthermore, I am already enjoying those herbs! I guess this just goes to show, even a 'mile from heaven' we still find little things which enhance the beauty of our special 'spot' all the more!

Lady of the Lake

2011-07-06T16:23:00.007-06:00

Centennial Valley Spring

While the sun is shining, the air is warm, a friendly breeze blows, and summer appears to have finally arrived in the Centennial, it took its time coming this year. In fact, a few folks were beginning to wonder if we'd fallen off summer's 2011 list. However, the view outside my window confirms it has arrived!

Nonetheless, before it came calling, we enjoyed / endured (depends on the day and one's perspective at the moment) a wetter than normal late winter and spring. Thus when the time came to haul a load of junk to the Dillon dump, we knew we were looking at a long trek along some less-than-perfect roads. And it was - a LONG trek. Nevertheless, the roads were not nearly as bad as I'd anticipated.

Granted, things were obviously wet enough this Pin-Tail pair found the road as inviting as the nearby river. However, puddles like these are pretty well the 'norm' for the Centennial. Besides that, the local puddles always look worse than they are.

The adventure began as we turned down the Northside Centennial Road heading west. This is a road we rarely travel. First because we rarely head west. Second because we usually use the Southside Road. However, on this particular day the Northside Road seemed the better option. Certainly the view is inviting, even with the low-hanging clouds.

One of the reasons we prefer the Southside Road is the journey across the valley on Elk Lake Road and then the next 15 miles or so along the Southside Road almost always provide abundant wildlife sightings. The Northside Road, perhaps because it crosses the Sand Dunes and open sagebrush flats, just doesn't produce as many sightings. However, as you can see from the opening photo, the views are certainly spectacular. Furthermore, things picked up a bit as the road drew closer to the Red Rock River.

The waterfowl were thick along the river. Innumerable ducks swam in flocks or pairs. Several Swans graced the view. Even a few pronghorn grazed nearby (note the Pronghorn in the top left of the photo).

However, for sheer concentration of numbers, the Pelicans definitely won out. Because the river is running so high, this flock look to be standing on an island.

While wildlife sightings were scarce, the cattle were fairly abundant. The west end of the valley is big ranch country. Several ranchers from the Dillon / Lima area summer their cattle up here. Thus while the grass wasn't even beginning to look hospitable for cattle on our end of the valley, here cows and calves grazed peacefully against a stormy spring sky.

Traveling the Southside Road leaves one few options. It runs east and west with few junctions or side roads. The Northside Road is a different story. Once one gets beyond the Refuge boundary, several options open up. You can head up over the Ruby (although that road doesn't open until July). You can head along the north side of Lima Reservoir and end up in the town of Lima. Or, you can head due south across Stibal Lane to the Southside Road.

It would have knocked miles (and perhaps an hour or more) off our journey if we could have taken the road along the north side of Lima Reservoir. However, unless one had 4 inch cleats on their tires, I do not think it could have been done. That road looked like a mud slick! So, we turned south across Stibal Lane.

I have to say, the west end of the Southside Road was about as bad as anything we covered that day. And, as things go, we met the only other vehicle that morning along one of the worst stretches. And, to make matters worse, we were both pulling trailers. Nonetheless, everything ended well. Neither of us ended in the ditch. No one got stuck.

Finally the end came into view - well, at least the end of the paved road. I'm not sure anyone (except, perhaps, the dozen or so folks who call this ghost town home) would say they'd reached 'the end' when the came to Monida. However, at least we could say we'd survived the roads and reached the Interstate. While we were still about 60 miles from Dillon (and the County dump), the journey at least picked up speed at this point.

No one would ever accuse us of living a dull life. That's how we like it. Living in the Centennial is an adventure - and the best kind at that!

Lady of the Lake

2011-06-28T16:25:00.000-06:00

Horse Creek Falls

It is no secret. In fact, the news media and the Weather Channel make it sound like Montana is buried - in water. However, Montana is much too mountainous for such a statement to ring true. In fact, at our elevation the extra water has created some highly desireable, long forgotten, and rarely seen sights.

Take Narrows Creek for example. In the past eight years, Narrows Creek has looked and acted like a creek only on rare occasions and for brief time periods. Thus the spawning activity which made this creek 'famous' has been non-existent. However, more than one fish has made its way up the roaring little stream which has been singing outside my window this past month.

Or consider Horse Creek. This local stream has withstood the drier weather patterns with more success - but, nonetheless, has been far from its 'impressive' self. This year it is doing a remarkable job of moving water. A water-feature on this stream was the focus of an early morning hike as May became June.

I had hiked up Horse Creek a few days earlier to check the condition of my favorite waterfall. However, I made that hike without my camera. Thus I had a perfect excuse for a return visit.

The sun comes up EARLY this time of year. Thus is was just beginning to kiss the cabins with a golden glow as I headed out

It may have been early June, but the snow didn't seem to know. At the top of many north facing ridges I have clambered over snow drifts many feet deep. While they are fading, they appear in no hurry to leave. Obviously, Bo does not mind that one bit!

The shortest route to my destination was up the draw before Narrows Creek Pond, over the ridge, and down into Horse Creek. This cuts off about a mile from the 'easy' route down Elk Lake Road and up Horse Creek Canyon. Topping the ridge I came across an unusual sight - five Pronghorns intermingled with three Mule Deer.

I doubt it is that unusual to see pronghorn and deer in close proximity. However, while both species winter in the Madison Valley, I have never seen them grazing together. Nonetheless, as odd as I found their close proximity to one another, the recent activities of these Pronghorn (which, I suspect, may be the same five who hung around last year) has been even more noteworthy.

I have seen these five animals in many places - but most often NOT where I'd expect to see them. The last time I saw them, they were at the highest point of the ridge I was traversing, on the edge of heavy forest. Since most 'normal' Pronghorn seem to prefer wide-open, level spaces, I'm not sure what to make of this little herd.

After a 35 minute hike I made it to the foot of the falls. I must add this disclaimer at the outset: These pictures do not do them justice. The canyon is narrow and heavily timbered. Thus I found it very difficult to obtain a position which would give me a decent camera perspective. Furthermore, while the sun was 'up' on the ridges, the deep canyons were still bathed in the half-light of early day. Nevertheless, if you look up the draw you can see a large fir tree which grows at the top of the falls.

Not only is the canyon narrow, the 'falls' itself is really just a jumble of boulders tossed by a giant hand into the bottom of the steep narrow gorge down which Horse Creek flows. In addition many of these boulders are the size of a full-size pickup truck, further warping one's perspective of the actual size.

The cattle or game (or both) have created a spiderweb trail network along the steep banks in this narrow draw. Scrambling along one I obtained a different persepctive.

The boulders tend to dominate the scene. This is one reason I wanted to head up while water flow was at its peak. Although I've seen this stream trickling down over these massive rocks, it is hard to portray the amount of water flowing over them this year.

These two close-up shots give you an idea - especially when you realizes this is only one 'part' of the creek. The rocks force the water to head in many directions to work its way through this rocky maze.

I was also frustrated becaise it was to show the height from which the water drops over this rocky landscape. This picture, taken from the top, shows the top of the falls (see the water in the lower right corner) and the bottom of the falls (about mid-picture). While the falls itself is out of sight, it is possible to gain a little idea how far the water drops.

It was time to leave the shadowed draw and head for the sunny ridge. From the top I had a nice view of Mt. Jefferson behind Elk Mountain.

Back over my shoulder I had a beautiful view of the Centennial Valley's lower end with Lima Peaks in the distance. This was shaping up to be a beautiful day!

While the light wasn't the greatest for 'waterfall' shots, I couldn't complain about the bright sunlight bathing the ridges for the walk home. However, I was a bit disappointed at first. There did not appear to be a single wild animal in sight. Then, way over there, I caught a glimpse of a cow elk - and, what do you know, there was a calf - I suspect it was the same one I'd spotted a couple days earlier. And, while the distance was too far for a great shot, at least I have proof there was at least one baby elk running around the neighborhood!

Closer to home I ran across a couple Mule Deer, grazing in the morning sun.

Then came the highlight of the day. As I dropped into the final draw, heading back toward the lodge, I heard a loud crashing noise ahead and to my right. At first I thought I'd startled something which was running away from me. I hate to startle the wildlife - so I stopped. Only it wasn't running away, it was coming toward me - and it was BIG!

Living in bear country I know I should have thought 'BEAR' and been looking for a place to hide. However, in all honesty, bear never even crossed my mind. But, then again, bull Elk didn't either!

The dogs and I were down in the draw (thus in the shadows). He was about 30 feet above us with his face in the sun. Thus we were invisible. Furthermore, he was panting so loudly, I don't think he could have heard us if we'd made noise - he certainly didn't pick up on the camera's shutter.

I do not think he would have recognized we were nearby (The dogs were so good. They just stood there and watched him walk by!) if his path hadn't crossed the top of the draw we had just descended.

He was amazing to watch. He walked across above us with such a stately air probably heading for a nice cool spot to spend the day. Without warning he stopped and whirled in a movement so quick it was hard to follow. Clearly he had our scent, but he still had no idea where we were. Thus he headed back along his own track and stopped directly above where we were standing.

This time, with mouth closed, he heard the camera's shutter click. While I doubt he ever saw us, this was all it took to send him back up the hillside he had just decended. Wow! What an amazing up-close and personal experience.

There aren't any 'bad' mornings at Elk Lake. It's just too amazing to live here. However, a morning like that does more to kick in the endorphins than a pot of coffee or a good run! Yet, amazing as it was, in so many ways, this was just another relatively normal day in my life. That, I believe, is the most amazing part of all!

Lady of the Lake

2011-06-15T16:17:00.008-06:00

Wildlife In and Around Yellowstone

Many people come to our area to visit Yellowstone National Park. I certainly understand why. We usually enjoy two visits annually to the Park - once in the spring and once in the fall. In fact, we know of many people who chose to live in this area in large part because of our proximity to YNP. So, when one takes a trip to Yellowstone the7 expect to be 'wowed' - and I've never known the Park to disappoint.

Thus when some friends came to visit recently, we decided to take a trip to the Park. It was a lovely day - and we all enjoyed the experience. However, out of pure curiosity, I decided to keep track of the wildlife I saw 'inside' the Park and the wildlife I saw 'outside'. The results may come as a surpise to you - they did, at least in part, to me. (Note: The 'outside the Park' animals were all spotted between Elk Lake Resort and YNP's west entrance.)

Inside:

39 Canadian Geese

1 Trumpeter Swan

3 Sandhill Cranes

2 Bald Eagles

1 Osprey

Several Ravens

Several Ducks

15 Elk

144 Bison (and 7 calves)

1 Coyote

1 Bear (at quite a distance but still a bear)

1 Chipmunk

2 Squirrels

Not too bad for a few hours in the Park. For those of you who wonder: We entered the West gate - drove to Madison Junction - headed south to Old Faithful - then backtracked a bit to the north to continue on to Mammoth Hot Springs. The Lamar was too far away for our time frame and we were told Hayden Valley was snow covered and thus not a good place to spot wildlife.

Outside:

5 Canadian Geese

3 Trumpeter Swans

3 Sandhill Cranes

7 Bald Eagles

Numerous Hawks and Kestrals

1 Owl

Numerous Ducks and Ravens

About 35 Pelicans

3 Long-billed Curlews

2 Caspian Terns

About 12 Gulls

1 Blue Heron

Numerous Small Birds (Blue birds, Robins, Red-wing Black Birds, Chicadees, Juncos, White Crowned Sparraws, Meadowlarks, Magpies - to name a few)

6 Moose

33 Elk

1 Bison

14 Pronghorn

That is amazing. I'm not saying YNP isn't worth the trip. I mean it when I say there is no place like it on earth. But I think visitors to the area miss much when they assume it holds the most or even the best the area has to offer. Outside of a bear sighting (interestingly enough a Grizzly sow and her cubs crossed Elk Lake Road two days prior to our YNP outing - about 3 miles from the lodge), there was more wildlife to be seen outside the Park, that day, than inside. Even if this was an anomaly, my experiences certainly have shown the entire Great Yellowstone Eco-system is a nature-lover's smorgasbord.

Now, for the 'photo record' (WARNING: I have a LOT of photos to share so this may be a slow upload):

We'd barely left the driveway before we ran across our first 'wildlife' - a pair of Long-Billed Curlews feeding along the road.

Next came the first of several Bald Eagles we were to enjoy that day. This one perched on the top of a small evergreen just a few yards off the road.

However, Moose sightings were to dominate a good portion of our trip out that morning. Not that we didn't see other wildlife, obviously we did, but one does not find three bull Moose hanging together every day of the week! Can you spot all three?

First Picture - 0 Geyser Clock

While two of three promptly left the photo-shoot, this guy hung around. I suppose he figured he was too well camouflaged for us to see.

Even after he finally decided to stand up and pose, he seemed in no big hurry to run away.

Of course where one finds bulls, the cows aren't too far away. Thus we caught a couple of cows close enough to photograph.

The Sandhills have been much quieter this year than normal. Those of you who have been around for awhile have probably read of my compulsion to stop and listen to the Sandhills whenever their haunting cry drifts down the canyons here at Elk Lake. However, I have heard few Sandhills yet this season. Perhaps it is the weather.

One friend who has spent many years photographing in and around the Park has suggested the birds are behind in courting and mating. Perhaps it is the odd spring. Be that as it may, here is one fellow who isn't going to be put off by a wet spring. However, it looks like he's going to have to try a bit harder to get her attention!

They came late, but they made it in the end. 'They' are the flocks of Pelicans which decend upon Henry's Lake this time of year. Here is one flock we found resting on the lake shore as we headed past.

A common reason for visiting YNP in the spring is to see the Bison calves. While I must admit I do not find adult Bison to be particularly 'good-looking' (albeit they are impressive), Bison babies are darling!

Bison always strike me as being out-of-proportion. After all, they boast a HUGE head on a normal-sized body. How big is their head? This cow's head makes her calf look even smaller than it is!

As I've mentioned before, our snowy winter followed by the cold wet spring has been hard on these animals. Here is one cow who managed to produce a calf yet appeared so hungry she wouldn't even stop to let her calf suck. This gives new meaning to the phrase 'grabbing lunch'!

If you look again at the Bison count I posted above, you will see how out-of-proportion things are this year. We saw at least 144 Bison but only 7 calves! That makes this little fellow almost a National Treasure!

No one could ever rightly accuse me of being a house snob. Try as I might, I always base my property preference on location, never structures. However, there is one building which I enjoy visiting - purely for the pleasure of enjoying its beautiful structure. While we rarely make the drive down to Old Faithful anymore, I thoroughly enjoyed re-visiting the newly restored Old Faithful Lodge.

The fireplace clock in the lodge has always fascinated me. While currently it is not in working order, I did manage to catch a brief segment of the lodge tour. Thus I learned it is slated for repairs in the not-too-distant future.

I also learned that this work of art was created by the same blacksmith (did you catch that - blacksmith!) who did all the original iron work in the lodge - such as the door latches and hinges on the entry doors. Obviously this artist was a very talented blacksmith.

Next time I visit the lodge, I hope to take in the guided tour. While I'm too much of a free spirit to find most guided tours interesting, the little I heard on our brief visit had me wishing for more time and a notepad. This old building has quite a history and an abundance of beauty and style!

Of course no trip to Old Faithful is complete without joining the crowds (which were a bit thin that day) to watch the Grand Lady of the Park show her stuff.

And, true to form, she did not let us down. In spite of the 'unpredictable' weather we've been enjoying above ground, things appear to still be working like clockwork below the surface - at least if Old Faithful is any indicator.

Soon we were back on the road eyes open for the next wildlife sighting. Usually, in Yellowstone, one can find the wildlife not by looking for the wildlife but by looking for the crowd of people. However, twice now we have spotted bears not by the crowd they've drawn but by noticing one person who is obviously intent on something. Thus we spent awhile watching this fellow feeding along the hillside in the distance (and, yes, it didn't take long for the crowd to gather).

That was about the end of the Park excitement for that day. However, on the way back to Elk Lake we did spot several small bands of elk grazing on the slowly emerging grass.

And while we cannot boast of a water-spewing Geyser, sulfer-laden steaming pots, boiling mud, or even gorgeously attired historic structures - and even though I think YNP is well worth the time and effort every time I visit - I still think I live in one of the most beautiful and impressive places in or out of the Park! Certainly this sunset over Upper Lake is a fine way to end such a lovely day!

Lady of the Lake